Re: MB 409356 - photos added 04 June 2019
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 6/27/16
A lot of work has brought your MB toward its new life.Sheet metal looks just fine.Recently we finished my tub,using a repro front floor.It was not altogether as easy as the maker punched every bolt hole.This required way more dimensional checks than you'd think...worked in the end,but credit to you for saving your floor.
Ralph
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 6/27/16
so I am finishing up on my tub and I was having some difficulty telling how bad my patches looked. I decided to add some paint to it so I could see where I am at. I am really at a crossroads as to how to proceed.
My goal was to save as much of the original metal as possible. As you can see by the photos there are many bumps and weld lines to fix up. Should I just try to bump them out and live with it or add some filler to smooth it out? Maybe a balance between the two?
I never intended or expected it to look like it just rolled off the assembly line. It looks like someone rolled it on the side to repair the drive train. I feel like I am over my head on the body repair.
Your constructive comments are welcome.
My goal was to save as much of the original metal as possible. As you can see by the photos there are many bumps and weld lines to fix up. Should I just try to bump them out and live with it or add some filler to smooth it out? Maybe a balance between the two?
I never intended or expected it to look like it just rolled off the assembly line. It looks like someone rolled it on the side to repair the drive train. I feel like I am over my head on the body repair.
Your constructive comments are welcome.
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 9/13/16
Onaway,you have done a noble restoration on a rough tub.Maybe a little more hammer & dolly,maybe a little bondo where you think you may need it...your original finished product is still far better now than a repro tub,imo...
When your handles,brackets,etc.,are added-they will blend with the bumps to an extent;besides,OD hides better than primer.Good job.
When your handles,brackets,etc.,are added-they will blend with the bumps to an extent;besides,OD hides better than primer.Good job.
Ralph
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 9/13/16
Thanks for you nice comments Ralph. Part of the problem I ran into was the 18 gauge metal is now 20 gauge and it was a pain to do the butt welds.
I will keep pounding and grinding on it a bit more now that I can see it better.
I will keep pounding and grinding on it a bit more now that I can see it better.
- twinflyer17
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 9/13/16
I agree with Ralph - saving an original tub, not matter the condition, is still better than a repro. If you do decide to keep tacking and grinding to fill in some rough welds, or need to do a bit more hammering to straighten some metal, I think you'll be a bit happier, though. Overall I think you've done an excellent job thus far. You will be surprised how a small amount of filler can help tremendously to hide some rough work, and OD does an even better job of hiding imperfections, too. Keep up the good work and continue to post pictures if you have questions or want more feedback!
- twinflyer17
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 9/13/16
I agree with Ralph - saving an original tub, not matter the condition, is still better than a repro. If you do decide to keep tacking and grinding to fill in some rough welds, or need to do a bit more hammering to straighten some metal, I think you'll be a bit happier, though. Overall I think you've done an excellent job thus far. You will be surprised how a small amount of filler can help tremendously to hide some rough work, and OD does an even better job of hiding imperfections, too. Keep up the good work and continue to post pictures if you have questions or want more feedback!
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 9/13/16
Onaway, lay a straight edge (like a piece of angle iron) onto the side panel . Mark the worst depressions and use a dolly to drive them outwards. Lay your edge up again and do the same again. High spots need oxy acetylene to shrink . You heat up a high spot about an inch across and encourage it outwards , drop the torch and drive the hot spot inwards on itself with a hammer and dolly.The metal will thicken as you do this and when you quench it with some wet rag will pull the loose spot tighter . Dress with a hammer and dolly. Lay your straight edge on again and mark the smaller areas with a marker pen . keep going and the uneveness will get less and less. You must get it to 1/16'' or less . With a DA sander and grit pad run over the panel .The high spots remaining will show up again and you need to deal with each one .You can then fill (bondo) and block off with a long piece of wood with your 60/80 grit paper attached you should be able to get it perfect with effort and time. Do one panel at a time and work your way around the body getting each one to this standard.
You have done the welding - now do the finishing - did you think you were finished ? No - you are just on the next stage !
best of luck Barrie
You have done the welding - now do the finishing - did you think you were finished ? No - you are just on the next stage !
best of luck Barrie
GPW 101005 DOD 3-2-43 20207773 (actual) Louisville
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 9/13/16
First I would like to thank everyone on your input.
Well I hammered and used a shrinking disc to work on some of the problem areas I fought with. In a couple of areas I started over and cut the metal out and replaced it. I was amazed at how well the shrinking disc worked and really enjoyed working with that. I still struggled with the welds but I think they look okay.
I know it doesn't look perfect but my intent was to never to make it look like it was fresh off the assembly line. I will probably work on it some more when I have more time next summer.
I was going to try and save the aft panel but decided to buy one from Ron and save myself a lot of headaches and time.
Now on to putting the tires together and building up the frame.
Well I hammered and used a shrinking disc to work on some of the problem areas I fought with. In a couple of areas I started over and cut the metal out and replaced it. I was amazed at how well the shrinking disc worked and really enjoyed working with that. I still struggled with the welds but I think they look okay.
I know it doesn't look perfect but my intent was to never to make it look like it was fresh off the assembly line. I will probably work on it some more when I have more time next summer.
I was going to try and save the aft panel but decided to buy one from Ron and save myself a lot of headaches and time.
Now on to putting the tires together and building up the frame.
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 11/7/16
Well done!
Looks great and the original tub has way more character than a repro would ever have. It's still the real deal.
Patrick
Looks great and the original tub has way more character than a repro would ever have. It's still the real deal.
Patrick
- Michael O.
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 11/7/16
I personally prefer original tubs on g503's, even if they're not "perfect". Thanks for preserving your jeep's historical integrity and for not taking the easy way out....great job!
Michael O’Connell
Too many jeeps…and a Dodge.
MVPA 13861
Too many jeeps…and a Dodge.
MVPA 13861
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 11/7/16
I have been keeping busy and now have a rolling frame. I have to replace the left steering arm as the tie rod end came up about a 1/2 inch above where if should have. The old steering must have been pretty loose. The paint really helps highlight the areas that need some more work
I also got the engine back and working on getting it ready to paint. The threads on the crankshaft needed cleaned up so i chased threads for 3 hours then waited a few days for the 1"- 16 die to show up. I had a Homer Simpson moment and got the crank put in and amid the excitement of installing it I for got to put the flywheel bolts in doh! I hope to get most of the external parts added this week and hopefully get it painted and ready to put in.
I went to the Arizona rally in Jan and just missed out on some bumperettes. They were under a table with a $40 tag on them and when I asked someone had already purchased them but offered to me at $80 but I decided to pass. I did find a NOS oil can and bracket for $20 and found out later that was a great deal. I was hoping to find some marker or tail lights but did not see any of those for a MB.
Sometimes things you think will take a few days to fix take a week. I could retire early if I got paid for every thread I have chased!
I also got the engine back and working on getting it ready to paint. The threads on the crankshaft needed cleaned up so i chased threads for 3 hours then waited a few days for the 1"- 16 die to show up. I had a Homer Simpson moment and got the crank put in and amid the excitement of installing it I for got to put the flywheel bolts in doh! I hope to get most of the external parts added this week and hopefully get it painted and ready to put in.
I went to the Arizona rally in Jan and just missed out on some bumperettes. They were under a table with a $40 tag on them and when I asked someone had already purchased them but offered to me at $80 but I decided to pass. I did find a NOS oil can and bracket for $20 and found out later that was a great deal. I was hoping to find some marker or tail lights but did not see any of those for a MB.
Sometimes things you think will take a few days to fix take a week. I could retire early if I got paid for every thread I have chased!
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 11/7/16
Onaway,
It's quite a distance with your Willys you've come-Homer minutes (like the rest of us) or not...
Was that steering arm jacked out of shape by the stabilizer that it came with?
Nicely done overall
It's quite a distance with your Willys you've come-Homer minutes (like the rest of us) or not...
Was that steering arm jacked out of shape by the stabilizer that it came with?
Nicely done overall
Ralph
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 11/7/16
Hi Ralph,
If I understand your question I had new tie rod ends and swapped them around to verify the arm was loose where the tie rod joins the arm.Was that steering arm jacked out of shape by the stabilizer that it came with?
Nicely done overall
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Re: MB 409356 - photos added 11/7/16
I was able to get a few coats of paint on the engine this week.
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