1944 Ford GPW-231738 - "Potshot"
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
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- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Thank you Ray, much appreciated!
Going close to the 5year mark, so I'm certainly not the fastest around!
Good call on the markings, hadn't thought of that. I'll stencil them before I tackle the tub and probably repaint them after. I plan on keeping the original guages as they look pretty good to me! same with the dataplates.
On a sidenote, installed the drag link on Sunday just for fun and now, the bell crank and drag link work with the steering, so I'm a happy camper.
https://www.facebook.com/BOISSEAU/video ... 814403494/
Now I just gotta save up for new wheel bearings (they get expensive fast...) and have my drums turned and we can finally have a rolling chassis
Going close to the 5year mark, so I'm certainly not the fastest around!
Good call on the markings, hadn't thought of that. I'll stencil them before I tackle the tub and probably repaint them after. I plan on keeping the original guages as they look pretty good to me! same with the dataplates.
On a sidenote, installed the drag link on Sunday just for fun and now, the bell crank and drag link work with the steering, so I'm a happy camper.
https://www.facebook.com/BOISSEAU/video ... 814403494/
Now I just gotta save up for new wheel bearings (they get expensive fast...) and have my drums turned and we can finally have a rolling chassis
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
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- G-Lieutenant General
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Hello,
Your jeep work is a great example of "can do " !
The video is great, well done on more progress for your jeep!
It looks like it works really nice.
Yes keep the original data plates !!
Keep us updated ! You are doing great !
Best Regards,
Ray
Your jeep work is a great example of "can do " !
The video is great, well done on more progress for your jeep!
It looks like it works really nice.
Yes keep the original data plates !!
Keep us updated ! You are doing great !
Best Regards,
Ray
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Two nice days of sunny weather this weekend, so I painted all 4 shocks, installed the extra rear leaf on both sides of the leaf springs that the previous owner added. Not original but it'll do for now. It was a pain to install the rear shocks because of it, had to load up the rear of the suspension quite a lot before the hanger would reach the shock! Pretty much threw in everything around I could lift by myself. And all 200lbs of me on top. Once the tub is on, it'll settle I guess.
Any tips on how to install the tie rods? The two ones connecting to the bell crank dropped right in, but the ones connecting to the knucles won't go in at all. Tried with a big ass C-Clamp and a mallet but I'm afraid to mess something up... Just wanted to test it, theres no clamp on the two bars yet.
Also intalled the brake pedal, the eye bolt for the MC was frozen in place in rust, managed to free it. I'm surprised there isn't a bushing or something there, but I guess it works! The parts shelf is getting lighter
Any tips on how to install the tie rods? The two ones connecting to the bell crank dropped right in, but the ones connecting to the knucles won't go in at all. Tried with a big ass C-Clamp and a mallet but I'm afraid to mess something up... Just wanted to test it, theres no clamp on the two bars yet.
Also intalled the brake pedal, the eye bolt for the MC was frozen in place in rust, managed to free it. I'm surprised there isn't a bushing or something there, but I guess it works! The parts shelf is getting lighter
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Helps when you put the tie rods ends the right way in the knuckles
https://www.facebook.com/BOISSEAU/video ... 119103494/
Started cleaning up the last two brake backing plates, and opened up the chain cover on the engine for fun, engine is free but I can't do a full revolution of it as the rear bolts that held the flywheel are interfering with the engine stand.
Also one of my tie rods end is messed up, the treads are all crunched, I need to order one (hence why that one isnt bolted down)
https://www.facebook.com/BOISSEAU/video ... 119103494/
Started cleaning up the last two brake backing plates, and opened up the chain cover on the engine for fun, engine is free but I can't do a full revolution of it as the rear bolts that held the flywheel are interfering with the engine stand.
Also one of my tie rods end is messed up, the treads are all crunched, I need to order one (hence why that one isnt bolted down)
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
If someone else has my oversized knucle stud that I lost issue, here's how I fixed it :
I also ordered dowelled studs since I didn't have any.
Ordered a stud # WO-349368 from Army Jeep Parts (Stud 7/16-14NC x 7/16-20NF-2 x 3 7/16 349368)
In the following picture I already cut down the threads that go into the knuckle to the same size as the regular studs. I then cut the the unthreaded section to the proper lenght, tried my hand at doing new threads with my die. Then I noticed my diameter wasn't correct so I chucked it in the drill press and slowly reduced it with a metal file until it was the proper diameter for 3/8" threads.
Worked perfectly Installed it quickly into the knuckle to test my shim thickness, now I just need to add the seals and the lock ring.
Does anybody know if I should heat treat it? Like get it red hot and dunk it in oil or it should'nt be affected by the grinding?
Total cost : 3,25$ instead of a new knuckle
I also ordered dowelled studs since I didn't have any.
Ordered a stud # WO-349368 from Army Jeep Parts (Stud 7/16-14NC x 7/16-20NF-2 x 3 7/16 349368)
In the following picture I already cut down the threads that go into the knuckle to the same size as the regular studs. I then cut the the unthreaded section to the proper lenght, tried my hand at doing new threads with my die. Then I noticed my diameter wasn't correct so I chucked it in the drill press and slowly reduced it with a metal file until it was the proper diameter for 3/8" threads.
Worked perfectly Installed it quickly into the knuckle to test my shim thickness, now I just need to add the seals and the lock ring.
Does anybody know if I should heat treat it? Like get it red hot and dunk it in oil or it should'nt be affected by the grinding?
Total cost : 3,25$ instead of a new knuckle
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
FInished installing the brakes and brake backing plates, still need to have the brake drums turned and order new wheel bearings.
Started reading up on brake line routing, shame I didn't take more pictures at first.
Also, I messed up one knuckle thread (where the backing plate is bolted to it) so I need to look into a thread insert for it.
How does the brake light switch work? It looks awful on the outside, anyway to test to see if it still works?
Chief-inspector approves the work. Or like the smell of antiseize and new shiny brake parts
Started reading up on brake line routing, shame I didn't take more pictures at first.
Also, I messed up one knuckle thread (where the backing plate is bolted to it) so I need to look into a thread insert for it.
How does the brake light switch work? It looks awful on the outside, anyway to test to see if it still works?
Chief-inspector approves the work. Or like the smell of antiseize and new shiny brake parts
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- zepher11
- G-Lieutenant General
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- Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:37 pm
- Location: The Real Northern CalifornIA
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
I think the inspector is liking the solvent.
The brake light switch is pressure activated. Maybe if you hooked up your compressor air hose to it somehow you could test it? Seems like a bit of work, however. Ron sells a new switch for $12 and now shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/WWII-Jeep-Willy ... G3&vxp=mtr
Not easy to get to if it doesn't work later. If it were I, I would source a new one just to have piece of mind. I did see a couple of youtube videos when I searched that may show how to test it if you want to retain the one you have.
The brake light switch is pressure activated. Maybe if you hooked up your compressor air hose to it somehow you could test it? Seems like a bit of work, however. Ron sells a new switch for $12 and now shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/WWII-Jeep-Willy ... G3&vxp=mtr
Not easy to get to if it doesn't work later. If it were I, I would source a new one just to have piece of mind. I did see a couple of youtube videos when I searched that may show how to test it if you want to retain the one you have.
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Good call, I'll throw in a new switch in my next order to Ron. I also need the brake clips for the frame rails, I don't think I had those when I dissassembled the frame.
Yup the dog is a real white collar, she was back in her bed within minutes!
Yup the dog is a real white collar, she was back in her bed within minutes!
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Found out I had the 2 needed copper washers for the brake banjo bolt.
Installed most of the lines, I'm missing I think 3 axle clamps and shouldn't there be 3 clips to attach to the axle covers? 2 in the front and one on the rear? I'd be missing one, but I can use my old one. Also, I'm missing the 2 clips to attach to the inner frame rail.
The brake lines are just finger tight at the moment, should something be applied to the threads or keep 'em dry? I do have the proper flare wrenches btw.
Started cleaning up my axle shafts too.
Haven't installed the S-lines as I still need to fix up the threads on one spindle and install the axle shafts. Haven't installed the long line either as one of my button bolt/fake rivets is interfering with the clutch tube bracket so I have a bit of grinding to do there and I don't wanna damage the brake line.
Also lost the bolt holding the rear Tee, so gotta find the specs for it.
Installed most of the lines, I'm missing I think 3 axle clamps and shouldn't there be 3 clips to attach to the axle covers? 2 in the front and one on the rear? I'd be missing one, but I can use my old one. Also, I'm missing the 2 clips to attach to the inner frame rail.
The brake lines are just finger tight at the moment, should something be applied to the threads or keep 'em dry? I do have the proper flare wrenches btw.
Started cleaning up my axle shafts too.
Haven't installed the S-lines as I still need to fix up the threads on one spindle and install the axle shafts. Haven't installed the long line either as one of my button bolt/fake rivets is interfering with the clutch tube bracket so I have a bit of grinding to do there and I don't wanna damage the brake line.
Also lost the bolt holding the rear Tee, so gotta find the specs for it.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Finished installing the brake lines. I seem to have too many fabric pieces on my lines, unless I'm mistaken about the emplacement of the clips/clamps.
2 hose clamps on the front axle, Correct?
1 hose clamp on the rear axle, Correct?
2 Clips on the front diff cover, Correct?
1 clip on the rear diff cover?
I also just noticed I installed the pedals the wrong way around woops.
Also, my LH axle shaft isn't a bendix like my right, its a ujoint. Good to use? Any maintenance I should do to it?
Ordered a keensert to fix my busted thread in the LH knuckle, also need to order those 25$USD GPW-2223 brake clips
I also started greasing up the various zerk fittings using my NOS Alemite 5585. Works like a charm, just had to change the leather/rubber thingy on the pushrod with a round piece of yoga mat I had laying around after I shadowed my tool box
https://www.facebook.com/BOISSEAU/video ... 283458494/
2 hose clamps on the front axle, Correct?
1 hose clamp on the rear axle, Correct?
2 Clips on the front diff cover, Correct?
1 clip on the rear diff cover?
I also just noticed I installed the pedals the wrong way around woops.
Also, my LH axle shaft isn't a bendix like my right, its a ujoint. Good to use? Any maintenance I should do to it?
Ordered a keensert to fix my busted thread in the LH knuckle, also need to order those 25$USD GPW-2223 brake clips
I also started greasing up the various zerk fittings using my NOS Alemite 5585. Works like a charm, just had to change the leather/rubber thingy on the pushrod with a round piece of yoga mat I had laying around after I shadowed my tool box
https://www.facebook.com/BOISSEAU/video ... 283458494/
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Installed my pedals the right way in and sandblasted all afternoon to finish up cleaning all my brake drums and paint them. Drop them off at the old garage the next town over that has a brake drum lathe and an old school owner. Hurt my back so rest of the day was calm. Oh and fixed up the threads with the Keensert, but its too close to the edge in my opinion, and other hole's threads are well used and barely engage the bolt, I'll probably change the knuckle to be safe. It'll do for now as I just wanna drop it on its wheels to wheel it out of the garage and paint the whole thing before its too cold!
Bought more organisers for my bolts, using Claude Pon's list. My machinist class was a long time ago, is there a rule when to measure a bolt from the shoulder of the bolt head vs just the threaded portion?
Bought more organisers for my bolts, using Claude Pon's list. My machinist class was a long time ago, is there a rule when to measure a bolt from the shoulder of the bolt head vs just the threaded portion?
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Woo, busy day. Got my drums back, they're looking great. Also got a new brake switch, didn't trust the old one. Installed the old wheel bearings, just had 1 bad race (installed it front left just so that I remember) but I needed the jeep to be on its wheels in order to push it outside to paint tomorrow. Also at first I was installing the oil seals on the drums way too deep, but a Gee member on facebook corrected me and I corrected the issue after.
Also replaced my busted tie rod with one from Joe's motor pool. Looking sharp but the threaded portion seems 1/8" longer than my old one and seems to be bottoming-out, but it could be due to the threads being rusty that far down, I gotta have a look.
Also, my front left axle is a bendix with no threads and a snap ring. However the right is a Spicer with no threads and no snap ring groove. What should I do with it?
Also replaced my busted tie rod with one from Joe's motor pool. Looking sharp but the threaded portion seems 1/8" longer than my old one and seems to be bottoming-out, but it could be due to the threads being rusty that far down, I gotta have a look.
Also, my front left axle is a bendix with no threads and a snap ring. However the right is a Spicer with no threads and no snap ring groove. What should I do with it?
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
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- G-First Sergeant
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Very clean work and clean garage, I like that very much
- marco.verhaag
- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
For the work, I hope so, doing my best! Learning something new every day and enjoying every single minute. For the clean garage, not so much haha I can't seem to keep my tools in the toolbox, they always end up all around me on the floor. Maybe a need more toolboxes
Well let's say that I'm dead tired, but now at least everything is painted. Couldn't find the energy to remove the masking tape so don't worry, I didn't paint the zerk for the grease or the steering shaft, its hidden under green masking tape.
I think ima sleep all week.
Well let's say that I'm dead tired, but now at least everything is painted. Couldn't find the energy to remove the masking tape so don't worry, I didn't paint the zerk for the grease or the steering shaft, its hidden under green masking tape.
I think ima sleep all week.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
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