1944 Ford GPW-231738 - "Potshot"
- GP1942
- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Salut
moi ce que je ferais avec le body, quand tu va le peinturer, je nettoierai le tableau de bord comme il faut et juste mettre un clear dessus,
cela garderai son origine......
moi ce que je ferais avec le body, quand tu va le peinturer, je nettoierai le tableau de bord comme il faut et juste mettre un clear dessus,
cela garderai son origine......
M-38 1952 with trailer
GP 8707
GP 8847
GP 8707
GP 8847
- Boyso
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
You could try that. If you don't like the result you can repaint.
- Boyso
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Yep indeed, I was wondering how I would refinish the dataplates/glove box door without messing everything up. Just clear-coating would work great I guess.
I'm far from the painting stage however!
I'm far from the painting stage however!
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Started shrinking and straightening the right panel, mostly right over the rear wheel, that spot was pretty caved in. The panel has a lot of cave-in, so learning how to use the dolly properly and shrinking with heat and air. Removed all the braces inside the tub to gain access, still a lot of work to do on it but I think I'm starting to get the grasp of it.
There is a few cracks that were welded shut after the panel was beat/caved in, so I had to grind those out. I'm trying to get it as flat as I can before I patch it up.
I gotta read up more on how to use the shrinking disc too, so far I've been using the MAP torch as I was only making a lot of noise with the shrinking disc, and barely any heat!
Near the rear corner
Near the filterette
I'm using a piece of sandpaper on a block of wood, probably not laser straight but I can't find a vixen file locally, I gotta order one from eastwood when I got some free funds
There is a few cracks that were welded shut after the panel was beat/caved in, so I had to grind those out. I'm trying to get it as flat as I can before I patch it up.
I gotta read up more on how to use the shrinking disc too, so far I've been using the MAP torch as I was only making a lot of noise with the shrinking disc, and barely any heat!
Near the rear corner
Near the filterette
I'm using a piece of sandpaper on a block of wood, probably not laser straight but I can't find a vixen file locally, I gotta order one from eastwood when I got some free funds
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Just a quick Sunday update, got the oil-canning rear quarter mostly in order, its still super lumpy but not bowed-in so far. Also got the over the wheel area flatter, just gotta find out if I should weld the cracks now, or when its 100% straight. I'm worried of how much it'll shrink with the heat of the mig welder.
Just as a reminder, the corner was like this :
Now its more like this :
Saturday March 24th Update
Just as a reminder, the corner was like this :
Now its more like this :
Saturday March 24th Update
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
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- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Slow progress, was stuck away from the shop due to the snow (yep, we're still expecting yet another snowstorm tomorrow).
I'm moving towards the rear of the jeep on this panel. I think I'm starting to get the hang of it but its a slow process and a bit frustrating. But its my understanding that flat panels are the absolute worse to work on, let alone learn on. I'll get there one day.
Two small holes/cracks I had to weld
Reminder of how it sat.
A bit of straightening
A lot of shrinking
After that, just a flat coat of paint and sanding to see the lowspots
Followed with a session of shrinking disk.
Its getting close by the whole area is concave a bit, maybe 1/16-1/8 caved in generally.
I'm moving towards the rear of the jeep on this panel. I think I'm starting to get the hang of it but its a slow process and a bit frustrating. But its my understanding that flat panels are the absolute worse to work on, let alone learn on. I'll get there one day.
Two small holes/cracks I had to weld
Reminder of how it sat.
A bit of straightening
A lot of shrinking
After that, just a flat coat of paint and sanding to see the lowspots
Followed with a session of shrinking disk.
Its getting close by the whole area is concave a bit, maybe 1/16-1/8 caved in generally.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Hello,
Your work is looking really good !
Becoming one with the frequency of the metal,
you are taking charge of it and tuning it back to a nice restored piece
You have my commendations on saving the original sheet metal parts.
It will be a great source of pride when you have it put back together knowing what you have achieved,
square inch by square inch !!!
Keep up your great works !
Best Regards,
Ray
Your work is looking really good !
Becoming one with the frequency of the metal,
you are taking charge of it and tuning it back to a nice restored piece
You have my commendations on saving the original sheet metal parts.
It will be a great source of pride when you have it put back together knowing what you have achieved,
square inch by square inch !!!
Keep up your great works !
Best Regards,
Ray
- Michael O.
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
You’re doing an amazing job saving the original sheet metal on your tub. There is a thread on the Tech Knowledge board about guys justifying their use of repro tubs....I wish most of those guys were following this one! A restored tub is far superior and keeps our jeep more historically intact!
Again, fantastic work!
Again, fantastic work!
Michael O’Connell
Too many jeeps…and a Dodge.
MVPA 13861
Too many jeeps…and a Dodge.
MVPA 13861
- Boyso
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Thank you both for the kind words. I wish I could say it was an easy job but far from it!!! As soon as I think I'm about done with one section, it oilcans on me somewhere else!
But I'm enjoying it and bashing stuff with an hammer does bring a smile to me face after all
I wish I could work faster but I can't afford to buy the needed sheet metal at the moment and I have to leave for the week to Texas for work so I won't be able to work on the metal much this weekend either.
I also had the experience of working with great tools back in school when I was studying airplane conception. All the sheet metal brakes, mills, lathes and shears I wish for today! Now I have to make-do with chinese made tools but at least, its good training and I'm building a mostly well equiped shed for the next projects hehe
But I'm enjoying it and bashing stuff with an hammer does bring a smile to me face after all
I wish I could work faster but I can't afford to buy the needed sheet metal at the moment and I have to leave for the week to Texas for work so I won't be able to work on the metal much this weekend either.
I also had the experience of working with great tools back in school when I was studying airplane conception. All the sheet metal brakes, mills, lathes and shears I wish for today! Now I have to make-do with chinese made tools but at least, its good training and I'm building a mostly well equiped shed for the next projects hehe
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Realised today I actually and shrunk the metal so much that the radius for the rear corners was pretty much gone. So I went back today and stretched it back out, it curled right up, should be close as original but I'll replace it with new steel down the road.
The crack I pictured is due to what i presume to be metal fatigue from the oil canning, the bottom section of the tub corner was so twisted that it seems to be pulling a bit over the rest of the panel. I drilled up the end of the crack, I'll weld it up and the heat will shrink it a bit which should help. Its not oil canning no more at least!
I still have some cave-in to fix, its getting less lumpy but still overall way too low.
It really feels like im doing 15 steps back and one forward sometimes.
The crack I pictured is due to what i presume to be metal fatigue from the oil canning, the bottom section of the tub corner was so twisted that it seems to be pulling a bit over the rest of the panel. I drilled up the end of the crack, I'll weld it up and the heat will shrink it a bit which should help. Its not oil canning no more at least!
I still have some cave-in to fix, its getting less lumpy but still overall way too low.
It really feels like im doing 15 steps back and one forward sometimes.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
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- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Getting closer now, cut off the curved part to replace with new. Also got my metal brake tweaked/reinforced. I think my bend radius is quite close for some edges, but not sharp enough for others.
Still trying to get the panel dead flat.
Still trying to get the panel dead flat.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Division Leclerc
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Hello Boyso
what an incredible job you arleady made !
You're both very patient and skilled to achieve all this.
Also very interesting and instructive, I could refer to some threads you post when I will start the serious things on mine !!!
I wish you lot of courage and luck to continue your project to the end as soon as possible.
Bravo pour ce que tu fais et continue de nous faire partager les étapes du boulot !!
Une bonne poutine pour te remettre d'aplomb !
Bertrand
what an incredible job you arleady made !
You're both very patient and skilled to achieve all this.
Also very interesting and instructive, I could refer to some threads you post when I will start the serious things on mine !!!
I wish you lot of courage and luck to continue your project to the end as soon as possible.
Bravo pour ce que tu fais et continue de nous faire partager les étapes du boulot !!
Une bonne poutine pour te remettre d'aplomb !
Bertrand
- Boyso
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Thank you very much Bertrand, much appreciated! I wish I could work faster ! But the past weekends have kept me busy by preparing the lake house for summer by taking out the dock and other random chores and my daily driver car has not been very cooperative! Three (!) throttle body replacement later and a little freak out on the highway when one of my brake caliper seized up have also drained the "Jeep-fund" quite a bit for the past few months.
I started making some patch panels but I'm being soo focused on getting perfect fit that I've had to scrap every patch I cut and bent so far haha. At least where I lack on math/mesurment skills, I finally figured out the proper bending radius for the U-channel/top rail for the panels!
I also kept working the rear section before the corner, its maybe 95% there, not oil-canning or anything but still bumpier than a teenager's face when within 5 feet of it. I want it perfect and hopefully not have to use any plastic filler
I'd love to use lead but from what I'm reading, oxy-atylene torch seems to be a must, as in a MAPP torch would probably not be good enough and lead-free solder needs too much heat for flat panels it seems.
Also I'd like not to die from lead contamination just yet. Since we use a well, I'd also not want any risk of contaminating our water!
Like I've always said, to me its a retirement project and since retirement for me is not for another 40 yrs, I'll keep going, one small bite at a time
On a sidenote, after 5 years, I think I've finally found a name for my jeep that isn't used as far as I can tell. I was trying to find a clever name (Rough Rider being my all time favorite) but most names I could come up with were already used, alot!
So I think ima name it "Potshot" for now, seems finitting with the hole in the frame, and the tons of holes I've had to drill!!! (Rivets on the frame, spotwelds on the tub)
I started making some patch panels but I'm being soo focused on getting perfect fit that I've had to scrap every patch I cut and bent so far haha. At least where I lack on math/mesurment skills, I finally figured out the proper bending radius for the U-channel/top rail for the panels!
I also kept working the rear section before the corner, its maybe 95% there, not oil-canning or anything but still bumpier than a teenager's face when within 5 feet of it. I want it perfect and hopefully not have to use any plastic filler
I'd love to use lead but from what I'm reading, oxy-atylene torch seems to be a must, as in a MAPP torch would probably not be good enough and lead-free solder needs too much heat for flat panels it seems.
Also I'd like not to die from lead contamination just yet. Since we use a well, I'd also not want any risk of contaminating our water!
Like I've always said, to me its a retirement project and since retirement for me is not for another 40 yrs, I'll keep going, one small bite at a time
On a sidenote, after 5 years, I think I've finally found a name for my jeep that isn't used as far as I can tell. I was trying to find a clever name (Rough Rider being my all time favorite) but most names I could come up with were already used, alot!
So I think ima name it "Potshot" for now, seems finitting with the hole in the frame, and the tons of holes I've had to drill!!! (Rivets on the frame, spotwelds on the tub)
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
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- G-Lieutenant General
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738 - "Potshot"
Hello Boyso,
Great choice of a name for your jeep !!
Don't worry too much about slight dimples on your jeep panel when done.
Do not ever use bondo on your jeep, period !!
You can reliably use a product called " All Metal " it goes on the same way.
But it is rock solid, and does a fantastic job.
It does not ever absorb water, and break off like bondo does.
It will be perfect to fill in any little imperfections,
then you can sand it down smooth to match the surrounding metal.
I have used it, it is GREAT !!!
Best Regards,
Ray
Great choice of a name for your jeep !!
Don't worry too much about slight dimples on your jeep panel when done.
Do not ever use bondo on your jeep, period !!
You can reliably use a product called " All Metal " it goes on the same way.
But it is rock solid, and does a fantastic job.
It does not ever absorb water, and break off like bondo does.
It will be perfect to fill in any little imperfections,
then you can sand it down smooth to match the surrounding metal.
I have used it, it is GREAT !!!
Best Regards,
Ray
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