Converting M998 to an M1026

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RockHillWill
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Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Thu Jan 11, 2018 7:32 am

This is my first excursion into any form of military vehicle build, but I have built over 122 NASCAR stock cars, 2-high point Model A's, several drag cars and a handful of 'hot rods', and I am more than willing to say that you guys have been very instrumental in maintaining my enthusiasm, by your willingness to help a 'new guy' Thanks! I am 75, retired and living on Social Security, but have few bills and this is the last item on my 'bucket list'. The most difficult thing that I have encountered are the 'electricals'. Little of that was required in any of my previous builds. One of my simultaneous projects is the building of the wooden bucks and the aluminum body for a 1935 Bugatti Stelvio. I am also hosting my 5th international metalshaping event the first part of April and that is consuming time as well as using up some shop space. I mention the above to explain why progress is slow. My wife is great help, but has limited time to devote to the project. She is in love with the turret roof.

Here is a link to my 'project' page on my website. I will soon be adding more pictures to the Humvee page as I get more time.
http://www.mantiquesresto.com/Projects/Projects2.html

The GP truck seems to be exceptionally nice. Mice had ruined the rear seats, but the canopy was nice, engine starts easily and seems to idle VERY nicely. Odometer said 2780 miles, but I was/am a little skeptical. When I changed the oil it was still very clear. The transmission and transfer case fluid was new. The air cleaner was new. There are NO leaks (yet), gauges all work, oil pressure shows 45-50 PSI (original gauge). No rips or tears on any ball joints or steering links. Three tires were new enough to still have a green ring inside the tread. Brakes will put me thu the windshield if I am not careful. Brake pads look to be the same thickness as new ones. I did change all the belts and water hoses, but saved them all as I saw no visual issues. It has original batteries, that to date have been performing very well. All the lights work. I acquired it without either headlight, but I installed a pair of original ones and everything is working fine. Body 'damage' consisted of a 4" crack at the right front fender and a bent brush guard. Both of those items have been corrected.

Up next is differential and hub inspection and grease change, after the body change has been done. We have driven it on about 6 short trips that have added about 45 miles or so to the total. Steering has no discernible play, turn signals work as they should, and I am not able to see any evidence of this having been repainted. I have had enough of rules and rulebooks, so I am mainly interested in assembling this as accurately as possible. I did not serve due to some football related injuries, but my intention is to complete this project as accurately as possible out of respect for those that did. The finish of both the truck and the turret top/windshield are of the same 'tone' of green and I intend to paint small areas of 'camo' to make the transition from the top to the body look correct. I am aware of the 'patterns' and will adhere to that as correctly as I can.


These pictures are what I started with:
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RockHillWill
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:08 am

I got the front bumper extensions on, but had trouble finding both of the lower diagonal gussets, so I bought the one I could and measured and drew the pieces, had them cut on the water jet and welded it up 'opposite hand' to the other one. I took the advice from this forum and notched them for easier installation, then I figured out that I have to take the bolt out anyway to get the older diagonal supports out. I had a 6000 electrical winch given to me but it is not working at this time. there appears to be no structural issues. I had to buy a new controller and a box, but have it installed.
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RockHillWill
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:23 am

Here are some assorted pics from the windshield switch. We switched the glass from one to the other, removed the speakers from the ballistic windshield and sorted and tagged the wiring between the two. I have ordered the third male connector and an insulator boot to keep the wires from chafing on the windshield frame or the chassis. Kascar was not aware of this item, but when I gave them the number from the TM, they discovered that they had one in stock. Got the fire extinguisher mounted to the existing vertical plate under the drivers seat. Had to drill two additional holes, but the spacing worked out great. Had to remove the work previously done on the radio shelves.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by dilvoy » Thu Jan 11, 2018 3:24 pm

This will be a fun build for you. Be sure to seal the windshields and their gaskets with some sort of caulk or something else or they can leak and also between the bottom of the windshield frame and A Beam. Align the front doors with their openings then adjust the windshield frame to match the doors if the doors are not damaged doors. Hard tops have their windshields more vertical than soft tops. You can get the shims for the two legs of the turret support for where they attach to the windshield frame from Kascar if needed.
George D. Paxinos

M998's
M1044
M1123A2

RockHillWill
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:22 pm

Thanks, George, you timing is right on target. I had heard about shimming the windshield and was about to ask what that involved. I have made a drawing, then had a water jet pattern made for the turret roof insulation and am waiting for it to come back from the water jet guy, and I am ready to put the roof on. Thanks again!


RockHillWill
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:58 pm

Installing the 'turtle back' section took a little of figuring out how to do it. My shop is not very tall, and I don't have a hoist, so, I got it located in place and went inside and using a felt tip pen, I outlined all the attaching hole locations. Pushed it forward and drilled some holes, then moved it rearward and drilled some holes, leaving the two central holes to be drilled in place. Kascar only had one side of the rubber insulator pieces, so I acquired two of them, then raised up the 'turtleback' and inserted the insulators. The 'sticky' side was not all that sticky, and they had been stored all knotted up, so I stretched them out and applied the spray adhesive that I will be using on the roof interior to one side, then added weights/hammers to hold it in place until the glue dried. Then set the top down and using the inserts from Kascar, bolted the top sections down. I think that it went well and the edges seem to line up correctly. The we installed the 'new' tailgate. We are having problems with the lower latch on the hatch, and I have had to make a wooden 'wedge' to open up the tunnels that house the actuating rods, using a hammer and that piece of wood as a dollie. It looks like I will need to get a new latch as I have been unable to get the latch to move freely from position to position, no matter how much lube and how many cycles of trying.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Thu Jan 11, 2018 5:12 pm

The roof work is also taking longer than anticipated. We got the soft top off and removed the 'B' pillar then scraped the old insulation remains off and cleaned the under side of the roof. I took dimensions and made a drawing to send to the water jet guy and had him cut some preliminary patterns out of some Masonite that was left over from the Model A Panel Deliver truck roof. I made some adjustments to the drawings and they are at the water jet guys place. maybe this week end or next week.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by Action » Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:55 pm

The hatch should move freely. Try adjusting the 4 pivot points. Also, make sure you get the 2 lower hatch shock studs in thd correct place.
In case you didnt know, the hatch opens two ways. I lkke thd rumble seat option. There is a lock up by the roof that just turns to lock and jnlock.

Jason

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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Fri Jan 12, 2018 5:38 am

Thanks, Jason. I did know that the hatch opens both ways, and I had a hard time explaining that to the guys at the local armory motor pool. They had never worked on a TOW missile carrier and were giving me some grief over it. What I was actually saying about the hatch was that the latch handle had a 'catch' in it about halfway thru the movement, and it would not release latches at either side to position themselves to let the hatch close. Once it was closed, it would allow the hatch to open, but then again, it would not close. The hatch looks like it had been dropped on a sharp object right in the middle at some point in time and the sheet metal 'tunnels' that the operating rods go thru were collapsed. I disassembled the rods and straightened out the tunnels and that did not correct the problem, so I started looking at the latch, and short of removing the spot welds, I decided that based not only on the non-functioning aspect, but the poor appearance of the latch, I just bought another one. I am waiting for that latch to arrive from HPGUY, but they are waiting to ship because he was the only vendor that I could locate that had the retaining clips, and he has to order them from AMG. I tried to source these clips elsewhere, but was unable to do so.
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by AAVP7 » Fri Jan 12, 2018 6:45 am

Hi Will,
very interesting thread to follow ! I also aquired a TOW carrier hardtop a few months ago, but am progressing slower than you, so it´s very good to see all the steps that lay ahead of me. My hardtop has some of the about 10 paint layers flaking off, so it needs to be sandblasted, and at the moment I´m still fighting to get all that glue from the insulation off. (My sandblaster insists on parts completely free of all "soft" surfaces, since his sand would just bounce off).

I will surely follow your progress.
Arnd

1985 USMC M998 A0 Serial 3xxx
1987 M997 Maxi Ambulance top

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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by Urban Camo » Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:18 am

Easiest way I found to get the old insulation glue off is with a vibrating multi tool.
I believe they make an actual blade like a putty knife I just used the old worn out wood blade and sharpened them to look like a putty knife.
Ends up working like a barbers hair cutting tool if that makes any sense .
At least it worked for me on my top.

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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by Action » Fri Jan 12, 2018 4:11 pm

If you are talking about the clips that hold the rods to the latch, just go to a junkyard and look inside doors. They are used all over the place.

Jason

Image

They come in plastic, too.

Image

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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Fri Jan 12, 2018 6:21 pm

The ones that I have already look like they came from a junkyard. I was wanting something new if possible. I have had several bad experiences with older ones crimping and distorting after usage. They are commonly found in the older Dodge cars, and I have just grown to not trust them old rascals.
I'm an old rascal too, and some days, I don't trust me either.
Last edited by RockHillWill on Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by RockHillWill » Fri Jan 12, 2018 6:46 pm

While waiting for the roof insulation to be cut at the water jet place, and the hatch latch parts to arrive, I have started to work on the radio (display only) and the shelves. I want to actually use a cell phone, a 2-meter HAM radio and a GPS (I anticipate only using any two at one time). I have decided to try and use a 24v to 12v converter on the radio trays and get the 12v power there. I have also acquired a VIC-3 comm system and feel that I have most of the cables figured out now, and got two of the three boxes mounted two days ago. I acquired a lower shelf, and when I put them together the two shelves were not parallel horizontally, so I added two 1/2" vibration mounts at the front to make them parallel. I purchased a mounting plate for the VIC-3 items, but could not make it fit, so I measured the two shelves, made a drawing and had a plate cut at the water jet place and formed it to fit the two trays. In response to some earlier posts, I got some quick pins and lanyards to mount the base of the trays to the console.

Guys, I know this is not normal, original or particularly intellectual for a radio setup, but even though it is my intention to be as original as possible on this truck build, I need to do this for my personal driving preferences. I drove around this entire country for 26 years, hauling my race cars, and I have some old habits. (My wife made me give up most of my other ones)
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Re: Converting M998 to an M1026

Post by dilvoy » Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:46 pm

Those clips are a pain to get. One side is available and the other not so. The rods are larger than most door linkages too so using automotive parts probably won't work.
George D. Paxinos

M998's
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