Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
- Boyso
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Great work Zeph! Slow down, you making us look bad
Wanna adopt an apprentice? I'm kinda clean and can live off beer for a while
Wanna adopt an apprentice? I'm kinda clean and can live off beer for a while
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
It is actually a private residence. He will be at the show in Petaluma, so I can introduce you to him if you like.Dozerman51 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:20 amHi Zeph,
Where is this yard located and is there a phone number for the yard? That closed cab WC with no bed on it, was it a T-207-T-211 cab or a T-215 cab. Looks like it has a winch mounted behind the cab. Thanks for any Info. Yes, it is nice that someone saved these vehicles from the scrappers. Wonder if he has any 265 motors lying around.
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
lol...trying not to go too fast. I can't get through a garage day without a beer, so you would fit right in here that's for sure.
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Yes, it would be nice to talk to him about his vehicles. Hopefully my brother and I will be able to make it up there for the show.
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Bring your truck. If you or anyone is bringing a Dodge to the Petaluma 2018 event, please get on the list here: http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f= ... 8#p1710628Dozerman51 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 27, 2018 7:10 pmYes, it would be nice to talk to him about his vehicles. Hopefully my brother and I will be able to make it up there for the show.
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Still cranking on the rust issues. Like I said before, this is a whole new level of rust than I have ever dealt with. I spent all day yesterday trying to take the four leaf spring shackle bolts off as well as the intake and exhaust manifolds from the engine without damaging them. One positive, I was able to save the front axle stud. Nothing I could do would get the nut off except for:
These nuts were welded on. Came very close to cutting with the torch:
After soaking, heating and hammering, I finally pulled out the big sledge hammer. After about 50 blows they started to move. At that point I didn't care what I messed up.
Took well over an hour to get the manifolds off the engine:
Some of the problem is that there are studs holding the two manifolds together below the carburetor. I snapped one off, but managed to get the nuts off the other three. In addition, someone used a couple of bolts vs. nut to hold the exhaust manifold on. I ended up snapping those and broke a couple of studs. Then the fun began:
After working it for over an hour the exhaust manifold gave it up:
After I broke the exhaust manifold, I employed every pry bar and chisel I had handy and pulled out the big sledge hammer again. I really didn't care at this point if I destroyed anything:
Now that the manifolds are off, I still can't get the exhaust and intake separated from each other. I finally gave up. I may give it another go today, or just toss them. Now I wished I would have just cut them off and not wasted my time.
I also found some speedy sleeves to install on the axle yokes. I had four NOS yoke seals, so thought I would check them out. Even though they were wrapped and boxed in Cosmoline, they still had surface rust on them:
These nuts were welded on. Came very close to cutting with the torch:
After soaking, heating and hammering, I finally pulled out the big sledge hammer. After about 50 blows they started to move. At that point I didn't care what I messed up.
Took well over an hour to get the manifolds off the engine:
Some of the problem is that there are studs holding the two manifolds together below the carburetor. I snapped one off, but managed to get the nuts off the other three. In addition, someone used a couple of bolts vs. nut to hold the exhaust manifold on. I ended up snapping those and broke a couple of studs. Then the fun began:
After working it for over an hour the exhaust manifold gave it up:
After I broke the exhaust manifold, I employed every pry bar and chisel I had handy and pulled out the big sledge hammer again. I really didn't care at this point if I destroyed anything:
Now that the manifolds are off, I still can't get the exhaust and intake separated from each other. I finally gave up. I may give it another go today, or just toss them. Now I wished I would have just cut them off and not wasted my time.
I also found some speedy sleeves to install on the axle yokes. I had four NOS yoke seals, so thought I would check them out. Even though they were wrapped and boxed in Cosmoline, they still had surface rust on them:
- USAFpj
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Zeph- concerning the SpeediSleeve; my pulley hub looks a lot like your u joint there. Is the idea of the sleeve that you place it over the existing male portion, and then machine it down to spec? Or is it designed to just have a larger outer diameter now??
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
The sleeve metal is very very thin and is hammered or pressed down to cover the wear indent on the shaft providing a "brand new" surface for the seal to ride on. I would make the diameter a little larger which isn't a bad thing for the seal to ride on. If I install them today, I will post some photos.
No machining is required, but there is a lip that allows the installer (the sleeve is inside and one can see the lip at the bottom of the installer) that is shown in the photo above to press the sleeve on. The lip can then be broken off as there is a score line to allow for that process.
I have never used one, so this is new to me as well.
- jeepfinger
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Hi Zeph,
She's turning out to be a tough one fighting you all the way. Good news that you managed to get the rear corner a bit straighter
Thanks for explaining the roof to me. Still following
Dave
She's turning out to be a tough one fighting you all the way. Good news that you managed to get the rear corner a bit straighter
Thanks for explaining the roof to me. Still following
Dave
Dave Boocock
GPW 41158 June 19 1942
Bantam T3 9555 1/11/1943 USA 0258448
BSA WDM20 Sept 1940 C4343114
GPW 41158 June 19 1942
Bantam T3 9555 1/11/1943 USA 0258448
BSA WDM20 Sept 1940 C4343114
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Hi Zeph,
Too bad about the broken exhaust manifold. They are harder to find than the intake manifolds. The 4 stud and bolt set up used to attach the intake and exhaust manifolds together on the 23” motors is a joke. The 25” flatheads have 4 through bolts and nuts holding the manifolds together. Way easier to separate than the 23” set up. I have used heat, beeswax or candle wax to remove rusted nuts, bolts, and studs. It really works well. PB Blaster works well also. Thing is, sometimes “Father time” along with the above works the best. I have found that out the hard way, believe me.
Too bad about the broken exhaust manifold. They are harder to find than the intake manifolds. The 4 stud and bolt set up used to attach the intake and exhaust manifolds together on the 23” motors is a joke. The 25” flatheads have 4 through bolts and nuts holding the manifolds together. Way easier to separate than the 23” set up. I have used heat, beeswax or candle wax to remove rusted nuts, bolts, and studs. It really works well. PB Blaster works well also. Thing is, sometimes “Father time” along with the above works the best. I have found that out the hard way, believe me.
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Does look as if the manifold was already cracked. Not sure how successful it is to try to weld a cracked one with nickel rod, tho have seen ones brazed, apparently successfully. For that matter, I've seen both heads and blocks brazed and then used for years, if not decades.
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Yeah, the rust is a real monster on this one. Has to have been near the ocean with salt or something. Heating the bolt and nuts cherry red usually works for me in all my past life, but not on this beast. I also soaked most of the nuts for two months. I would go out every couple of days well before I started the breakdown. Kroil doesn't work, not PB blaster.
I can't get the intake and exhaust manifolds separated. I think they are a total loss. I did braze my GPW intake manifold back together when it broke. It's holding together well.
Here are some documentation photos on the Speedy Sleeves. There was a choice between the 3/4" sleeve and the 1" sleeve. Wish I would have went with the 1" sleeve. The 3/4" sleeve would have been fine, but it really is just short of 5/8". I guess they included the installation collar in the measurement. Anyway, these things are slick. I used some sleeve sealant to old them on which is recommended:
I peeled the collar off. It is kinda like removing a sardine can lid:
At least the engine is ready to go to the shop now:
Found my little transmission stand I made last time I rebuild a trans:
All ready for a rebuild now:
I can't get the intake and exhaust manifolds separated. I think they are a total loss. I did braze my GPW intake manifold back together when it broke. It's holding together well.
Here are some documentation photos on the Speedy Sleeves. There was a choice between the 3/4" sleeve and the 1" sleeve. Wish I would have went with the 1" sleeve. The 3/4" sleeve would have been fine, but it really is just short of 5/8". I guess they included the installation collar in the measurement. Anyway, these things are slick. I used some sleeve sealant to old them on which is recommended:
I peeled the collar off. It is kinda like removing a sardine can lid:
At least the engine is ready to go to the shop now:
Found my little transmission stand I made last time I rebuild a trans:
All ready for a rebuild now:
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
I would still continue to soak the c... out of the intake/exhaust manifold. Can you use a small hacksaw blade or dremil wheel and bust up some of the gasket or rust material between the manifolds to allow the loose juice to work on the studs? Also, I see that you are going to use the OEM leather oil seals on the TC yokes. IMHO, I think they are less than ideal. I have gone to Neophreme single and double lipped seals on the TC, Trans., Third Members etc. They work so well that I swear by them now.
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
I chipped some of the gasket material and sprayed the between the intake and exhaust manifold again this morning. I think the largest issue is that the studs are totally seized in the exhaust manifold. Tough to get a good soaking down in there. I have a good early exhaust manifold. I just need the tall intake manifold.Dozerman51 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 04, 2018 8:51 pmI would still continue to soak the c... out of the intake/exhaust manifold. Can you use a small hacksaw blade or dremil wheel and bust up some of the gasket or rust material between the manifolds to allow the loose juice to work on the studs? Also, I see that you are going to use the OEM leather oil seals on the TC yokes. IMHO, I think they are less than ideal. I have gone to Neophreme single and double lipped seals on the TC, Trans., Third Members etc. They work so well that I swear by them now.
I used modern seals on the transfer case rebuild. Those are actually the differential seals. They are rubber and not leather, but they are single lip. Although they are NOS, I don't think they are from the 1940's. Probably 50's or 60's or later. Look to be in nice shape. If not, at least they are a lot easier to replace than the TC seals...
- zepher11
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Re: Zeph's Dodge WC26 Carryall Restoration
Noodled through pressing into service my low budget rotisserie. I keep modifying it for the job at hand. I had to buy some upgraded heavy duty angle iron, however. This body is a little heavier than my GPW tub...
I was thinking I wasn't going to mount the body, but it does make it easier to work on. My main goals were to of course have it balanced, allow easy access inside and out, and to make it easy for me to stand inside without bumping my head. I'm 6'2". That way I don't have to stoop. I also wanted to get full rotation. I still need to get a couple of long pieces of metal to mount on/near the outside of the outside support wheels. That way I can remove the center section of the two modified engine stands that has the center wheel. This well allow full rotation of the body. The calculations paid off. It will be nice to be able to stand inside. I will need to cut out all the window boxes and wheel wells to replace the metal. Also built the rotisserie to allow access to the firewall and rear. I can mount the tailgate, etc... Each rotisserie rendition gets better and better. When I did the command car body, I welded the front mount right to the hood latches on the firewall. This rendition turned up much better.
I put my limited welding skills to the test. This metal was pretty thick, so was worried the MIG wouldn't be up to the task. Wasn't quite sure how to determine center of gravity, but after a few measurements, and seat of the pants engineering, it appears to have turned out pretty well. Lots of welding to secure everything. Rotates nicely and seems pretty solid.
Also, hoisted up the axles for rebuilding. The front axle came with a set of Dualmatic lockout hubs. They worked initially, but now they don't. I well need to figure that out if I decide to reuse them. The front axle had some caster shims. Haven't seen that on any of the trucks I have before. Also, had a good look a the Rube Goldberg steering setup up using a Jeep steering drag link and a myriad of steering arms. Why go stock when one has some extra parts from another vehicle lying around...eh?
One of the leaf spring shackles was bent:
Rube at work:
I was thinking I wasn't going to mount the body, but it does make it easier to work on. My main goals were to of course have it balanced, allow easy access inside and out, and to make it easy for me to stand inside without bumping my head. I'm 6'2". That way I don't have to stoop. I also wanted to get full rotation. I still need to get a couple of long pieces of metal to mount on/near the outside of the outside support wheels. That way I can remove the center section of the two modified engine stands that has the center wheel. This well allow full rotation of the body. The calculations paid off. It will be nice to be able to stand inside. I will need to cut out all the window boxes and wheel wells to replace the metal. Also built the rotisserie to allow access to the firewall and rear. I can mount the tailgate, etc... Each rotisserie rendition gets better and better. When I did the command car body, I welded the front mount right to the hood latches on the firewall. This rendition turned up much better.
I put my limited welding skills to the test. This metal was pretty thick, so was worried the MIG wouldn't be up to the task. Wasn't quite sure how to determine center of gravity, but after a few measurements, and seat of the pants engineering, it appears to have turned out pretty well. Lots of welding to secure everything. Rotates nicely and seems pretty solid.
Also, hoisted up the axles for rebuilding. The front axle came with a set of Dualmatic lockout hubs. They worked initially, but now they don't. I well need to figure that out if I decide to reuse them. The front axle had some caster shims. Haven't seen that on any of the trucks I have before. Also, had a good look a the Rube Goldberg steering setup up using a Jeep steering drag link and a myriad of steering arms. Why go stock when one has some extra parts from another vehicle lying around...eh?
One of the leaf spring shackles was bent:
Rube at work:
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