It was an hour beforewc56daveyboy wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 4:41 pmMe thinks it was already Miller time when ya wrote this.. (clutch spelled wrong!)
Sold WC-12 W-231808
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Well, I bit the bullet and ordered wiring, shrink wrap and terminals to make a wiring harness. I am confident that I can follow the TM and get everything hooked up for around $400.That is a far cry from the over $900 for a ready made harness. It should be a fun project. At least I'll have most of the needed items available to start when I get to that point. First its fuel tank and lines, brake lines, get the engine out to the shop and then I can wire.
I just spent $278 for all the wire (except battery cables), and most of the supplies except the loom. I don't want to use the electrical tape wrapped harness as I think it looks like crap. Sorry
I will buy the loom, but will not know what lengths and diameter until I see which wires and how many run together. At that point it will be an easy calculation to buy the needed lengths and diameters to cover the various bundles.
5 of the color/tracer combinations are not available, so I did a close substitute which I'll outline when I get around to building the harness.
Here is what I have worked on another thread Although this is a poor image, It should help with wiring the Ameter. Colors seem to match.
I just spent $278 for all the wire (except battery cables), and most of the supplies except the loom. I don't want to use the electrical tape wrapped harness as I think it looks like crap. Sorry
I will buy the loom, but will not know what lengths and diameter until I see which wires and how many run together. At that point it will be an easy calculation to buy the needed lengths and diameters to cover the various bundles.
5 of the color/tracer combinations are not available, so I did a close substitute which I'll outline when I get around to building the harness.
Here is what I have worked on another thread Although this is a poor image, It should help with wiring the Ameter. Colors seem to match.
Last edited by 17thAirborne on Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:00 am, edited 2 times in total.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
I removed the rest of the parts attached to the clutch fork shaft, removed the manifold, the oil pressure relief valve and took off the valve covers.
- Attachments
-
- valves fore.jpg (118.11 KiB) Viewed 997 times
Last edited by 17thAirborne on Thu Nov 30, 2017 1:05 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Next I tackled the removal of the bell housing. Not fully understanding the method of attachment for the guts, It took a phone call to Joe to solve my issues. Proper steps are
1. remove the lower clutch cover and the splash shield.
2. Remove the 6 bolts holding the clutch pressure plate and remove the pressure plate from the bottom of the housing.
3. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the fly wheel to the rear of the crankshaft. That requires an open end wrench and lots of patience to get in the confined space between the back of the engine and the bell housing.
4. Remove the 4 bolts (previously loosened) from the engine that holds the bell housing on. There are two dowel pins between the bolts that act as an alignment aide.
1. remove the lower clutch cover and the splash shield.
2. Remove the 6 bolts holding the clutch pressure plate and remove the pressure plate from the bottom of the housing.
3. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the fly wheel to the rear of the crankshaft. That requires an open end wrench and lots of patience to get in the confined space between the back of the engine and the bell housing.
4. Remove the 4 bolts (previously loosened) from the engine that holds the bell housing on. There are two dowel pins between the bolts that act as an alignment aide.
Last edited by 17thAirborne on Fri Dec 01, 2017 5:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
-
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2572
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:54 am
- Location: Colorado
- Contact:
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
By now you MUST be used to being covered in grease and oil! Every night I would leave my friends shop, totally filthy and greasy, arriving at home to spend so much time cleaning it all off the best I could before hitting the shower.
Then the constant grease and grime under the nails..
Your about at the worst place now. Engine rear main leaks and clutch /transmission areas seem to Be the greasiest and dirtiest areas.
Once your done this stage ( motor and tranny) things should be getting less filthy for ya!!
Btw. If the bushings in the clutch housing that
Secure the throw out bearing clutch fork cross shaft are worn, be sure to address this now.
Can't remember if they are pressed in bushings or not. If so get new ones if you can. Makes for a nice smooth clutch throw on the foot once done
Then the constant grease and grime under the nails..
Your about at the worst place now. Engine rear main leaks and clutch /transmission areas seem to Be the greasiest and dirtiest areas.
Once your done this stage ( motor and tranny) things should be getting less filthy for ya!!
Btw. If the bushings in the clutch housing that
Secure the throw out bearing clutch fork cross shaft are worn, be sure to address this now.
Can't remember if they are pressed in bushings or not. If so get new ones if you can. Makes for a nice smooth clutch throw on the foot once done
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
yeplots of grease. i started using those black gloves to cut down on the scrubbing, but today i was dirty up to my elbows. there was definitely up and down play in that shaft, so i'll order the two bushings they look like they are slotted bearings from the vpw images. the throw out bearing is trash so that will be replaced. i'm actually looking at the whole new set up.
i'll have more grime with the tranny
i'll have more grime with the tranny
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
New parts arrived today. Once I get the engine to the shop I'll be able to start on these items. I have new brake lines, master cylinder, u-joints and hardware, steering items fuel pump and a few misc things.Everything is from VPW.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
I removed the head today. I am pleased with how the cylinder walls appear, although I will mic them on the next session. It does not appear to exhibit any blow-by upon examining the gasket and I see no evidence of water intrusion. The carbon build up is atrocious. Poor carburetor adjustment! Here are some pics of the head, the plugs and each cylinder.
If anyone sees anything suspicious, please let me know.
If anyone sees anything suspicious, please let me know.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
I removed all 12 valves and measured the stems. I bagged and tagged each set. There is noticeable side to side play in the valves after removing the springs. I did not even measure it as you can visibly see the rock with the valve just lifted. I think new guides are in order. I'll post the valve stem wear (not significant) , so I suspect the guides are excessively worn. The carbon build up on each valve is horrible. It would take hours to get them cleaned.
I was using a side valve spring compression tool borrowed from a friend. You can't get it on the upper part of the spring and it tended to slip off, so I improvised. As we said in the Army, adapt and overcome! The two clamps worked well to get the valve keys off. I used the two clamps and screwed them up together so as not to create any side load on the valve or springs. The valves were stuck to the keys and they rose as I compressed the spring., so a slight rap on the top of the valve after compressing the spring dropped the valve back into the seat. I used a piece of hard plastic to rap the top of the valve to get it un-stuck. Once it was lowered, I could remove the keys.
I then used the tool to get the keeper and spring out of the block. I removed the oil and big grime and measured the stems and length. The length measurement is nebulous as the carbon build up on top was excessive.
Each valve and parts was bagged by itself and the whole lot put into a larger bag so that if I re-use the valves they can go into the same location. 1-12, front to rear.
Here are some images of the method I used and some of the tools.
I was using a side valve spring compression tool borrowed from a friend. You can't get it on the upper part of the spring and it tended to slip off, so I improvised. As we said in the Army, adapt and overcome! The two clamps worked well to get the valve keys off. I used the two clamps and screwed them up together so as not to create any side load on the valve or springs. The valves were stuck to the keys and they rose as I compressed the spring., so a slight rap on the top of the valve after compressing the spring dropped the valve back into the seat. I used a piece of hard plastic to rap the top of the valve to get it un-stuck. Once it was lowered, I could remove the keys.
I then used the tool to get the keeper and spring out of the block. I removed the oil and big grime and measured the stems and length. The length measurement is nebulous as the carbon build up on top was excessive.
Each valve and parts was bagged by itself and the whole lot put into a larger bag so that if I re-use the valves they can go into the same location. 1-12, front to rear.
Here are some images of the method I used and some of the tools.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Missed a pic of the cylinder head. Here it is
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Today I began with the block tear down. I do not have a 1 13/16" socket to remove the cranking nut on the front of the engine, so I cannot get the front timing chain cover and elements out. Not a single one for sale in town, but a friend has one. Should get to that later. I turned my sights on checking one of the main bearings and removing the connecting rods and pistons. The main bearing that I looked at seems fine, but the bearings in the connecting rods (CR) and the journals on the crankshaft for them are another issue.
For sure I will have the crank turned and will be purchasing new main bearings and CR bearings. Here is a series of images of the "guts" the pistons and some of the bearings/journals. The pistons are all 40 over
For sure I will have the crank turned and will be purchasing new main bearings and CR bearings. Here is a series of images of the "guts" the pistons and some of the bearings/journals. The pistons are all 40 over
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
-
- G-Command Sergeant Major
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:00 am
- Location: Hereford,U.K.
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Well done on the tear down Oz,you beat me too it,i took the crank nut of after re-installing the flywheel and jaming it with a screw driver to stop it turning,then i used a rather large adjustable spanner and a soft blow hammer to get it off,not so sure how I'm going to get it back on though..
Ive been working on getting my front axle back on and installing the new front brake lines.
Ive been working on getting my front axle back on and installing the new front brake lines.
94 locating Regt RA,57 Bty B troop 1982-1985.
32 Heavy Regt RA,57 Bty D droop 1985-1990.
M38 1952 ,restoration project
Dodge 1/2 ton WC-24 Chassis WC-6 body..combo.
Dodge 1951 M43 ,SOLD
Harley Davidson WLA.type IV. SOLD
32 Heavy Regt RA,57 Bty D droop 1985-1990.
M38 1952 ,restoration project
Dodge 1/2 ton WC-24 Chassis WC-6 body..combo.
Dodge 1951 M43 ,SOLD
Harley Davidson WLA.type IV. SOLD
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Thank you. That nut sure slowed me down. It sounds like you had a similar experience.BATMOBILE1 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:15 amWell done on the tear down Oz,you beat me too it,i took the crank nut of after re-installing the flywheel and jaming it with a screw driver to stop it turning,then i used a rather large adjustable spanner and a soft blow hammer to get it off,not so sure how I'm going to get it back on though..
Ive been working on getting my front axle back on and installing the new front brake lines.
My friend came by with a 13/16 socket He misunderstood, and then quickly took my 2' monkey wrench and a breaker bar and loosened the nut. Since the pulley lip prevents a straight on run at the nut, it kept slipping off and I did not want to damage anything. He dug right in and now I'm off to more engine tear down. While I was in limbo I tackled the brake lines. Just finished the rear lines and dry fitted the front lines. I had to dig out my front tee fitting. I'll get more images once the whole job is finished. I purchased the pre bent lines with fittings on. Glad I went that route.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
Final tear down today and the engine is off at the shop. I removed the front timing cover, the gears and chain, the main bearings and the crankshaft. I left the cam in and that will come out at the shop. The engine is now in the hands of my machinist. Upon preliminary inspection, the cylinders are somewhat tapered, so we agreed on boring and honing those. Here is what we will get accomplished, not in the order they will do them
1. cylinders bored and honed
2. crankshaft turned and polished
3. valve seats cut
4. decking and machining head and block
5. dipped and cleaned
6. new water distribution tube
7. new valve guides properly seated and honed
8 a final cleaning
I asked him to call me at the various stages so i can post images of the process for the record and for my learning experience. For now here is my work.
1. cylinders bored and honed
2. crankshaft turned and polished
3. valve seats cut
4. decking and machining head and block
5. dipped and cleaned
6. new water distribution tube
7. new valve guides properly seated and honed
8 a final cleaning
I asked him to call me at the various stages so i can post images of the process for the record and for my learning experience. For now here is my work.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
- 17thAirborne
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5847
- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 5:42 am
- Location: Central TN
Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808
In anticipation of needing to do a bit of body work I ordered a cheap starter set of hammers and dollies to pound out some of the dings in the body, fenders and bed. I will leand on these and if needed upgrade later.
Oz
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 52 guests