Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
- tamnalan
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
That's a button head bolt, 3/8" shaft, probably about 3/4" inch long. Seems pretty pricey for just one! A guy could probably buy a whole bag of them from Grainger, Fastenal or McMaster Carr for about the same price as 4 from this guy.
Alan W. Johnson
_______________
MB, 201453, "Lt Bob"
MB, 1942, not stock
M-100, Sep 1951
MB-TD, Mar 2012
Ford 91C, 1939
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MB, 201453, "Lt Bob"
MB, 1942, not stock
M-100, Sep 1951
MB-TD, Mar 2012
Ford 91C, 1939
- Lowrdrbird
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
This has been a great post
I am looking at doing the front gussets to the frame I guess I need to get ahold of Brent Mullins to get a set of these.
Ken
I am looking at doing the front gussets to the frame I guess I need to get ahold of Brent Mullins to get a set of these.
Ken
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ALWAYS LOOKING FOR US6 Studebaker Parts
If you are reading this Thank a teacher, If you are reading it in English Thank a Vet.
1942 Chevy G506 " Allie Kat"
1942 US6 Studebaker 21645 "Phantom"
1944 US6 Studebaker Tractor "Carmen"
1945 US6 Studebaker "Dakota"
1945 US6 Studebaker "Spirit"
1943 1 Ton Trailer
ALWAYS LOOKING FOR US6 Studebaker Parts
- douglasmthom
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
From McMaster-Carr a box of 25 button head bolts is $8.47
Doug Thom
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
- Old Pal
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Does anyone make these in 5/16.
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Better rough than Repro
- Boyso
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Bought mine from BoltDepot, they are real grade 8 bolts. I wouldn't trust the ebay bolts to hold a mailbox.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Bob Shaw
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
The ones I used 11 years ago are still holding strong. Unlike most folks,I drive my G503 at least once a week,All year round, on,and off road. I swore by them on page 1 of this post 11 years ago,and still do today!
Flatfender Restorations 214-236-2535
Spc4 Robert Shaw 13F US Army/TANG 87-92
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MB351461 07-15-1944 USA 20615850
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
I have to repair the front passenger side shck mount on my GPW. I'm a- thinking these will work well for that repair too!
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Jeep'in NY, About One Hour From Canada
42 GPW*42 M3 Halftrack*51 M38*52 M38A1*53M37
Vietnam Veterans of America unit 193
MVPA # 435
Member Niagara Military Vehicle Assoc; Ontario, Canada
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
I have to replace the frame horns, the bumper and the spring shackles not sure of their name and rear bumper. I would love to have the rivet look on my GPW. I'll be starting up my project again next after being gone this year.douglasmthom wrote:From McMaster-Carr a box of 25 button head bolts is $8.47
Would you happen to have a part number and size to reference too for these?
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
I was able to get these rivet bolts and bought quite a few. Are these long enough to go through the frame, the horns and the leaf spring shackle? Given the thickness of the spring shackle it has me wondering.thovis wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2005 12:20 pmI had some questions about using and installing Brent Mullins Rivet Bolts. I am pleased to say they are wonderful to work with and they look great when completed. I replaced both the front gussets and rear cross member, and I wanted the Rivet look.
Installing I snap in a socket (where it will fit) and twist until the nut is tight and snaps off.
Here the tops are prepared for installing and the bottom have been completed
Completed...
Any help would be great.
- Boyso
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Those for the spring shackles are slightly longer I believe.
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MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Remember to sort out which ones go where, it is not that hard to screw them up.
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
I've been messing around with my frame lately and I do have the longer ones for the spring shackles. And yes it is easy to confuse the two .
I looks like on one photo you welded the back side to give it that rivet look? Is that correct.
I would have to agree with that. Also it seems that threading them is a bit on the tight side. I noticed that when I just test fit. Is that normal also?
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Don`t mean to pour cold water
They do look ok and for anyone not capable of installing real rivets then this is the next best thing
Rear cross member fine front gussets too
But just be aware these fabricated rivets are exactly what they are !!!
When it comes to spring shackle perches just make sure you`ve welded it to the chassis with a good weld if your going to use them there.
I have found that some shear very easy while others not so, and these were all from the same batch.
There`s no indication either from what grade of steel these are from either.
Trick I`ve noted is don`t tighten them up quickly, slowly and gently increasing torque works best to get them as tight as possible.
I also weld on the nut rivet just so it`s secure once it`s sheared then lightly grind off with a flap wheel on the grinder.
When it comes to limited access a dremil works quite well in those cases too
Geoff Bull
They do look ok and for anyone not capable of installing real rivets then this is the next best thing
Rear cross member fine front gussets too
But just be aware these fabricated rivets are exactly what they are !!!
When it comes to spring shackle perches just make sure you`ve welded it to the chassis with a good weld if your going to use them there.
I have found that some shear very easy while others not so, and these were all from the same batch.
There`s no indication either from what grade of steel these are from either.
Trick I`ve noted is don`t tighten them up quickly, slowly and gently increasing torque works best to get them as tight as possible.
I also weld on the nut rivet just so it`s secure once it`s sheared then lightly grind off with a flap wheel on the grinder.
When it comes to limited access a dremil works quite well in those cases too
Geoff Bull