Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Thank you. I designed the tool and had a friend with a full machine shop make it for me.
It is self-contained - no other clamps required. Insert rivet from inside the frame, place the tool into the c-channel and put the rivet head in the recess on the tool and hand tighten. Once the rivet head is in place, the tool will stay in place so you just tighten with a ratchet and allen driver. With everything tight on the inside, make sure the gusset/shackle is clamped to the frame tight. Heat rivet to welding temp (white hot & even sparking with neutral flame) and hit it with the rivet gun for 2-4 seconds. You will get a mushroom. Reheat and repeat. By the 4th heating, you should be very close. I used a piece of shim stock to make sure the rivet was formed all the way to the frame and called it a day. Just be careful as the bucking tool is a lot of steel and works as a great heat sink - it is extremely hot after bucking a rivet!
As I mentioned in the PM, I am talking to some local machine shops to get a few of these made for other sick souls. One other thing is I am going to get the Big Flats rivet set remade to match the Willys rivet. I may get ambitious enough to get a Ford style made as well.
Regards, Patrick
It is self-contained - no other clamps required. Insert rivet from inside the frame, place the tool into the c-channel and put the rivet head in the recess on the tool and hand tighten. Once the rivet head is in place, the tool will stay in place so you just tighten with a ratchet and allen driver. With everything tight on the inside, make sure the gusset/shackle is clamped to the frame tight. Heat rivet to welding temp (white hot & even sparking with neutral flame) and hit it with the rivet gun for 2-4 seconds. You will get a mushroom. Reheat and repeat. By the 4th heating, you should be very close. I used a piece of shim stock to make sure the rivet was formed all the way to the frame and called it a day. Just be careful as the bucking tool is a lot of steel and works as a great heat sink - it is extremely hot after bucking a rivet!
As I mentioned in the PM, I am talking to some local machine shops to get a few of these made for other sick souls. One other thing is I am going to get the Big Flats rivet set remade to match the Willys rivet. I may get ambitious enough to get a Ford style made as well.
Regards, Patrick
Last edited by pittsjock on Sat Aug 15, 2015 2:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Patrick
1943 Willys MB
1969 M274A2 Mule
Peoples Republic of New Jersey
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/PortrayalPress
1943 Willys MB
1969 M274A2 Mule
Peoples Republic of New Jersey
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/PortrayalPress
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Awesome Sauce,,,pencil me in for one!
1945 Willys MB
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>
- JAB
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Nice work and nice results!!!!
I don't want to go too far off on a tangent here, but.......I was looking at my passenger seat frames and noticed that some are riveted at the hinge and others are bolted. I even have one seat frame where one hinge is bolted and the other has a rivet. I can only assume that rivets were original and when they wore out they were replaced with bolts, but I'm not sure. Is this another rivet application that many of us overlook?
I don't want to go too far off on a tangent here, but.......I was looking at my passenger seat frames and noticed that some are riveted at the hinge and others are bolted. I even have one seat frame where one hinge is bolted and the other has a rivet. I can only assume that rivets were original and when they wore out they were replaced with bolts, but I'm not sure. Is this another rivet application that many of us overlook?
-Jeff
GR8GPN2U!!!
GR8GPN2U!!!
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Patrick, did you ever get any of the bucking tools made? I am almost ready to rivet myself
1945 Willys MB
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
I am also interested in one. Thanks Hinrik for an imformative thread!
Proud caretaker of U.S.A. truck 3219442-S 1943 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine 1 1/2 4x4
- Old Pal
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Commercial portable rivet press.
I wonder if this could be adapted. I don't know the dimensions or the capacity.
http://youtu.be/ojKPjMUohIM
http://www.car-o-liner.com/products/joi ... ivet-tool/
I wonder if this could be adapted. I don't know the dimensions or the capacity.
http://youtu.be/ojKPjMUohIM
http://www.car-o-liner.com/products/joi ... ivet-tool/
- Viking27
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Great to see guys sharing different ideas and coming up with solutions.
Wonder how much that Car-o-Liner rig costs? Cant be cheap....
Regards
Hinrik
Wonder how much that Car-o-Liner rig costs? Cant be cheap....
Regards
Hinrik
Hinrik Steinsson
Ford GP 9519
Proud member of 50 Shades of Green group
Ford GP 9519
Proud member of 50 Shades of Green group
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Hinrik
A question on the BOM rivets they are of course 3/8 but would they be these? BOM-R12-6 as the length is important since we aren't riveting thick material.
If you have any insight it would be greatly appreciated.
- Old Pal
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
You'll need two different length BOM rivets; one for the frame rail and a different length for the spring mounts. I'll post BOM numbers later today.
- Old Pal
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
I used BOM-12-8 for the 3/8” and mostly BOM-10-4 for the 5/16 except where I had to rivet three layers together at the front spring mounts. There I used BOM-10-6. It’s good to get a little extra just in case because the tool is very expensive to rent. I don’t have enough to do a full frame but I do have extra if you run short.54WYLLYSJEEP wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 9:29 pmHinrik
A question on the BOM rivets they are of course 3/8 but would they be these? BOM-R12-6 as the length is important since we aren't riveting thick material.
If you have any insight it would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Old Pal wrote: ↑Sun Jun 17, 2018 2:02 pmI used BOM-12-8 for the 3/8” and mostly BOM-10-4 for the 5/16 except where I had to rivet three layers together at the front spring mounts. There I used BOM-10-6. It’s good to get a little extra just in case because the tool is very expensive to rent. I don’t have enough to do a full frame but I do have extra if you run short.54WYLLYSJEEP wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 9:29 pmHinrik
A question on the BOM rivets they are of course 3/8 but would they be these? BOM-R12-6 as the length is important since we aren't riveting thick material.
If you have any insight it would be greatly appreciated.
I was able to get it done. I did get some rivets that did work great. I tested it before I did it to the frame.
- Old Pal
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm at the research stage for riveting my frame. I browsed eBay but couldn't find that particular rivet gun. Lots of 3x and 4x guns. Do you by chance have a make or model of your gun that I can chase down?pittsjock wrote: ↑Sat Aug 15, 2015 1:30 pmNiblet:Niblet wrote:Pittsjock,
so you used a traditional rivet gun ? how did you squeeze the shackle rivets?
could you post a picture of the gun and rivet set you used please?
Here are the tools: 15x rivet gun purchased off of Ebay for a little less than $200, homemade bucking tool, rivet set for gun from Big Flats Rivet Co. (in rivet gun). I already owned an air compressor & oxy-acetylene torch.
Tools.jpg
August 43 GPW Frame #135960
42 GPW Tub
52 M38a1 (work in progress)
42 GPW Tub
52 M38a1 (work in progress)
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
I have everything and more to rivet your frame
I spent hrs, days and weeks and 500 dollars of my own money to fabricate a suitable bucking bar
I got rivets, dies, you name it
but a 4x gun will work
I had this massive 15× I was using and was bending metal
email me and give me your number I can text/call with some info
I spent hrs, days and weeks and 500 dollars of my own money to fabricate a suitable bucking bar
I got rivets, dies, you name it
but a 4x gun will work
I had this massive 15× I was using and was bending metal
email me and give me your number I can text/call with some info
1945 Willys MB
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>
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Re: Ford GPW frame riveting instructions
Another option if you don't have access to the various engineering equipment, facilities, limited space, cash, etc or if you only need to replace a couple of rivets is to take a 3/8-24 x 1" or 1 1/8" long. Grind the head into the right shape (most bolt heads are the same depth). Grind flats on the last 1/4" of thread just removing the threads. This leaves the bolt end 1/4" thick to get a 1/4" open end spanner on.
Coat the bolt in thread lock also a full nut. Wind the nut up as much as you can with your fingers, then put a ring spanner (swan necks are best) on the nut and then your 1/4" open end spanner on the flats you ground and tighten. Once painted they look fine. Obviously if someone wants to crawl under and look inside the frame it doesn't look right but it's a solution.
For the blind rivets, if I remember rightly, the holes are 5/16". Whatever it is, measure the thickness of the materials you're going through, remembering the gaps will close up. Add on the thickness of a nut plus about another 1/4". Cut the bolt you're using to this length. I used the fine threads again. Put the bolt through from the inside of the frame, wind the nut on and tighten. Use a magic marker or something similar to see where the top of the nut comes level with the thread. Take the bolt back out and grind or file the threads off down to the level of the nut. Grind/ file the nut so it's round. Coat the bolt and nut with thread lock and put them in. Put your spanner or socket on the nut and use a pair vice grips on the rounded nut. Don't worry about marks on the nut, many of the blind rivets are nicked. Use a hacksaw to cut the excess bolt off just above the level of the nut. Again, once painted, they look good.
I looked at the blind rivets on my GPW and very few were the same, so don't worry about slight differences in excess bolt.
Coat the bolt in thread lock also a full nut. Wind the nut up as much as you can with your fingers, then put a ring spanner (swan necks are best) on the nut and then your 1/4" open end spanner on the flats you ground and tighten. Once painted they look fine. Obviously if someone wants to crawl under and look inside the frame it doesn't look right but it's a solution.
For the blind rivets, if I remember rightly, the holes are 5/16". Whatever it is, measure the thickness of the materials you're going through, remembering the gaps will close up. Add on the thickness of a nut plus about another 1/4". Cut the bolt you're using to this length. I used the fine threads again. Put the bolt through from the inside of the frame, wind the nut on and tighten. Use a magic marker or something similar to see where the top of the nut comes level with the thread. Take the bolt back out and grind or file the threads off down to the level of the nut. Grind/ file the nut so it's round. Coat the bolt and nut with thread lock and put them in. Put your spanner or socket on the nut and use a pair vice grips on the rounded nut. Don't worry about marks on the nut, many of the blind rivets are nicked. Use a hacksaw to cut the excess bolt off just above the level of the nut. Again, once painted, they look good.
I looked at the blind rivets on my GPW and very few were the same, so don't worry about slight differences in excess bolt.
Eric Corfield, England.
GPW #239370
Body mid series Willys
British army lend lease
Canadian 10cwt trailer
GPW #239370
Body mid series Willys
British army lend lease
Canadian 10cwt trailer
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