Frame Repair Help Needed - ALL FIXED

[Johnr]

Jon,
Thanks for the rely. I noticed the hole in your before pic(#2) after repair plates removed. Thovis's pic showed the hole but his is quite q bit later than ours but still a good indicator. John's pic also shows the hole but no mention of the serial number of his GPW was on the post.

Hi Bill,

The frame in the pic is GPW 185933

Nice work Jon, looking really good mate. I think you made the right decision to pull it apart and take the weld out completely.

P.S. While you were at it, did you replicate the wrinkle of the metal where it was bent??

Cheers, John.

[Jon]

The wrinkles will come with age John...... But I might just add one or two to get it started..

Thanks for the comments......my big frame repair is coming up soon..... Oh the Joy!

What started all this was Charlies MB.......and his weld..

This is what I asked back in July 2006. http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=85&t=98702" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the photo Charlie......It shows that rivet very clearly.
I meant to ask in the email reply about the weld between the A-Frame and the rear cross member....it looks original.....but I haven't seen one there before.

Cheers
Jon

[vascrats]

Awesome looking repair there Jon!

It always amazes me what talented people can repair and make look like nothing was ever done

[Jon]

I think it's the new Mig welder making me look good....... . honestly. It makes my life soooo much easier.

I was asked off line by a mate of mine...... yeah. sure........, show us the welds where you joined up the rear cross member. well. OK....
Here tis..... no bondo, no lead, just weld.....good penetration too


The next job is one that should be fun.. yup!... I like a good test........ taking apart the front shock housing and transplanting half a repro one where there's been a vandal using a gas axe. Sandblasted this area this afternoon......I get cracking on it tomorrow after work.

[artificer]

good penetration too

Last time I heard that it was in one of those what did the "Actress say to the Bishop jokes"....blah...blah....blah

[vascrats]

good penetration too

THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!

[iron duck]

I think it's the new Mig welder making me look good....... . honestly. It makes my life soooo much easier.

Jon, your repair is not so bad...but originally an arc welder was used for the job
After all that mig welder made it a seccond place repair....which is not so bad at all
Actually...one would have to fly to Belgium to see a better job my G friend

Some under the G people knows that arc welding is not really for amateurs.
Especially when such thin metal in vertical position is on hands.
As Jon already knows, a MIG welder is so much easy to handle for those unfamiliar with welding equipment.

Charlie's pintle hook frame section has the beautifull traces where the factory welder ingnited his electrode.
It is not easy for the restorer to copy these welds and traces.

Luc

[Jon]

Arrrrrr. well. yes!. no migs back then, but I only use the Mig to make "invisible" repairs, ( well. hopefully invisible) but, where it's called on to make welds that were there originally, I use an arc welder.
What's irking me at the moment is the repro front shock mount, the shaft is too short when you separate the two shell halves so it doesn't fit the inner shell of the original, ALSO........and what's more important....is the rivet hole is in the wrong place. ^%&^%#&^*%*&^$*. So that's more to sort out....bugger!
I'll either have to replace the shaft or extend it that 1/2" so it will fit.
also. I'll need to remove more of the original outer shell to get to the rust between the remains of the original and the frame rail, or. as I tend to think, remove it all together and re-rivet ......

JR

[iron duck]

No need to bugger with that repro junk Jon.
I have a donor frame with these brackets still attached and few things more.
It was stretched at some time and therefore I have cut it up as a donor frame for other restorations.
It has a perfect machine gun mount that someone wanted to have but didn't show up at the rendez vous point in Ciney

It can go your way if an address is provided.
Even with the frame piece that is rusted away at yours

Luc

[Jon]

Luc....... Thanks for the offer, but I'm working my way around the problems OK.
Check the pics below......this is this afternoons effort.
I extended the shaft by that 1/2", and as I mentioned the rivet is out of alignment a little, it's nothing I can't solve.
I ended up cutting away the complete outer shell so I could get to that rust, after sand blasting the area it wasn't too bad, but doing that, I'll now have to re-rivet the side plate instead of welding the Repro to the original. Probably better if I do it this way so no great loss.
I left the remains of the original rivet in place so I could better measure where I need to move the repro hole after welding that up.. A job for tomorrow after work.

Cheers
JR

[mmamajor]

Even on the smallest parts, there sure is alot of satisfaction to being able to "make things work" Andy

[wjohn]

Jon,

We found the same problem with my right front shock mount. the original was cut off to make way for the righ hand drive conversion. Once I had cut away all the bubba metal, we found that the bracket would not line up with the original holes on the chassis.

Our fix was to mig the holes in the bracket and redrill them.

My bracket was supplied out of NSW, and also had to be drilled for the pin.

[iron duck atelier]

Jon, no worrys, I do not want to take the satisfaction from your work away

Luc

[Mark Tombleson]

I enjoy watching you work, Jon!

I changed out one rear upper shock mount on my MZ-1 and it was easy with donor mounts from a junk frame.

The GPW sure has it's quirks and you seem to resolve the issues well.

[Jon]

I think the same Bubba worked on mine. It had been converted to Right Hand Drive too. My bracket came from Neil at Marathon back in '02 so this job has been sitting around for awhile..
I would have welded up the hole in the outer shell last night, but for the life of me I couldn't find my piece of 1/4" copper to back up the hole. I'll look again before I start work this morning..... It has to be there somewhere.. if I can't find it I'll have to steal some more.
Once I get things lined up I'll knock out that rivet and re-do it...the best thing is.... it's probably the easiest rivet to get to on the whole frame.
Must make a new bucking bar today if I get a chance.
Luc......There's something very satisfying about "gettin 'er dun"...
Markie....... You're always welcome to come over here and watch as much as you like mate..mind you, if you could help it would be appreciated,. oh. btw....Bring Paulie !!!

JR

Jon,

We found the same problem with my right front shock mount. the original was cut off to make way for the righ hand drive conversion. Once I had cut away all the bubba metal, we found that the bracket would not line up with the original holes on the chassis.

Our fix was to mig the holes in the bracket and redrill them.

My bracket was supplied out of NSW, and also had to be drilled for the pin.