Yet another combat rim question

[Steerman]

I tried to search the database, honestly I did, but I got 1104 posts, very few of which were about combat rims so I have 2 with VERY OLD tires on them. I brought them down to my local mechanic who thinks that they (the rims) must be taken apart to unmount the tires like big truck rims -true or false?

Is there a special technique? I basically want to take them apart anyway and refinish them.

[Schultzd]

The rims must be split to remove the tires. I believe if you attempt to roll the tires off the rims you will damage them. As talked about other times on this forum, many combat rims were damaged by tire dealers who have never seen this type rim.

Maybe someone will chime in on the correct procedure to remove the tires. I simply let the air out, then loosened the rear nuts and used a tire bead breaker to loosen the tires grip on the rim. A lot of work, but safer that if there were air in the tire. Some folks loosen the nuts then put some air in the tires to break the rust connection between the rim halves. This may not be safe, tho, if the tire is not in a cage. It took me several hours to remove the tires from my 4 rims. Much easier process to put new tires on after the rims are cleaned and repainted.

Dan

[Steerman]

Thanks Dan, I did read previous posts on techniques to unseize frozen rim bolts. I guess it would make sense since a tire can be replaced in the field without many special tools. Could this be a reason why they went to this style or are they less prone to damage or all of the above.

[j.deno]

Seasons Greetings:
The reason that the wheel is split is to incorporate the run flat inter ring that holds the tire beads against the outer rim, this allows the tire to run flat without coming off the rim. Most people do not use these rings as most have rusted or been damaged beyond use. A rubber boot to separate the tube from the rim is recommended,and most NDT suppliers carry this boot. Regards, Jim

[jeepscott3]

Dismounting can be a little different depending on how rusty the wheel is and weather or not you have the steel beadlock in place.

-If everything is realy rusty, you should use lots of penetrating oil on the eight wheel bolts, and it seems to help some to put it in the gap between the halves from the front of the asembled wheel.

-If the valve stem hole is in decent shape, you might have a decent chance at visualy determining if you have a beadlock in place. There can be one present, but you might not be able to tell if it has rusted away around the valve stem as many do. They aren't normaly there since they were a pain in the but, however you should try to figure out if it is since it will prevent you from breaking the bead with the wheel bolted together. If it isn't a very rusty wheel and you DON'T have a bead lock in place you might be able to break the beads on a tire machine. If it is there you risk bending your wheel and it will never come loose.

-Whether you are able to break the bead or not, you will have to unbolt the two halves. There is no drop center to slide the bead into to, to pry it past the rim like you do on a common wheel.

- If the halves don't come apart easily you can put the wheel up on a block of wood face down so that it is supported by the center, and try taping on the back of the bolts. This works, but if you need much more that light tapping you risk dislodging the bolts or even bending the face of the wheel.

- Another way to break the halves apart it to place the wheel face up, with blocks under the tire. You can use a large ruber mallet to try and beat the face of the wheel down. Unfortunately this can push the bead back into place if you managed to break it free already.

Fortunately once they are sand blasted and new tires are installed, it only takes about half an hour to dismount and remount a tire with hand tools.

[iron duck]

Seasons Greetings:
The reason that the wheel is split is to incorporate the run flat inter ring that holds the tire beads against the outer rim, this allows the tire to run flat without coming off the rim. Most people do not use these rings as most have rusted or been damaged beyond use. A rubber boot to separate the tube from the rim is recommended,and most NDT suppliers carry this boot. Regards, Jim

Verry interesting
I have always wondered why they used such a time consuming design for jeep rims.
They are a pain to remove tires
That's one of the reasons I have early jeeps with solid disck rims

Luc

[j.deno]

I had one combat wheel that was giving me fits to take apart, I ended up using the sawzall and angle grinder to cut off the tire, then used penatrating oil on the seams and a sharp chisel and hammer on the seam inside the rim. If you have the bead locks in, you diffinatly do not want the guy down at the tire shop, to brake the bead with the pnumatic machine it will bend your rim. Regards, Jim

[lucakiki]

What Jim suggested is very important: if the tires are not really worth saving, save yourself a lot of grief, and cut them off with an angle grinder.
Do not work on split rims if there are kids around.

[lt.luke]

instead of using a sledge and a pry bar to break them apart, try this...

loosen the nuts, then fill the tube with air (slowly). This will help break the halves apart unless the tube has a hole in it.

As mentioned, determine presence of a bead lock.

Use an old bumper jack and a heavy truck, placing the combat under the jack, then just jack up the truck. The bead should break. Move the rim under the jack and repeat the process on both sides and it'll come on off.

It's a pain and time consuming, but poor people got poor ways.

I suppose you could drive over the tire with the truck to break the bead, assuming that the truck runs! Careful not to scratch your tailgate, don't ask me how I know this one.

[thovis]

I suppose you could drive over the tire with the truck to break the bead,

This worked for me. Take the valve stem out of the tube, place on the ground and slowly run over the tire, the bead should break from the rim.

Here is an example of what I did for cleaning up the rims and installing new tires, tubes and flaps

http://www.1943mb.com/article/24/G503_W ... s_Assembly

Tom

[Remko]

What Jim suggested is very important: if the tires are not really worth saving, save yourself a lot of grief, and cut them off with an angle grinder.
Do not work on split rims if there are kids around.

Luca is right, it's rather time consuming trying to save the tire is most of the time an utiopia.

And for kids around... as time progresses on working the combat's , tools will be flying and words you may regret can be sad easy.

After you managed to resore your 5 combat rims to former glory, i think you might be rewarded as "marster chief of the combat rims"

and split rims are called combat rims cause it's a combat to split em after 40 - 60+ years

(done it 11 times over, 1 jeep, 3 trailers)

[Steerman]

I am SO glad that I don't have kids in the house - they would have a rather unpleasant new vocabulary by now. Thanks for all of your many tips. I will cut the tires off. The garage did manage to get the tire beads broken loose.

One rim is in better shape than the others. The rims currently on the jeep are early '42 types before they went to combat rims. Although I have to take a closer look to see if there are small air slots or not...

[jeepscott3]

The best way I have found to cut tires is a good quality jigsaw. With a good sharp wood cutting blade you can zip around the sidewalls in no time. This way you don't end up breathing a cloud of smoke either.

[Ralph Wicke]

Has anyone seen a tire repair shop in the middle of a combat zone? The combat rim was designed so that you could take it off the jeep and then disassemble it, put a new tube in the new tire and then put the two parts of the wheel together again.

Don't go to your local tire dealer. Unless he has an employee over 80 he probably doesn't have anyone in the shop who knows what a combat rim is. Not their fault but just something to remember.

Having said that think of this a a five part challenge. Concentrate on one wheel at the time.

First warning - Jeeps have right side and left side lug nuts. On the left side you have to "tighten" the lug nut to loosen it. Take care in establishing what is a clockwise thread and what is a counter clockwise thread is very important.

Once the wheel is off the jeep put lots of liquid wrench or WD 40 on the nuts and bolts as well as in the slot between the two parts of the wheel. You combat rims probably haven't been taken apart in 40 or so years.

Once they are apart then you can sand, prime and paint the two parts.
When the parts are dry put them on your work bench. Look at your new tubes and metal tube covers. Put the new stem from the tube through the hold in one half of the rim. Put the stem cover on the stem. If it fits perfect you don't have to do anything. If the stem is too long go to the hardware store and get enough garden hose washers and place them over the stem. Work with the washers and the stem until the metal stem cover just touches the rim.

When you are happy with the appearance of your newly painted combat rim take it down to the local tire shop and ask the oldest employee to balance you wheel. Tell him/her the history of the wheel and offer a drive around the block when all five wheels are done.

Now that you have completed one wheel return it to the jeep and put your tools away. If you do one wheel an evening it doesn't get frustrating.

It isn't difficult if you take your time, use penetrating oil or WD40. Remember about the right thread and left thread lug nuts on the jeep.

Hope it goes well. Post a picture of your jeep with its reconditioned wheels.

[Ralph Wicke]

Has anyone seen a tire repair shop in the middle of a combat zone? The combat rim was designed so that you could take it off the jeep and then disassemble it, put a new tube in the new tire and then put the two parts of the wheel together again.

Don't go to your local tire dealer. Unless he has an employee over 80 he probably doesn't have anyone in the shop who knows what a combat rim is. Not their fault but just something to remember.

Having said that think of this a a five part challenge. Concentrate on one wheel at the time.

First warning - Jeeps have right side and left side lug nuts. On the left side you have to "tighten" the lug nut to loosen it. Take care in establishing what is a clockwise thread and what is a counter clockwise thread is very important.

Once the wheel is off the jeep put lots of liquid wrench or WD 40 on the nuts and bolts as well as in the slot between the two parts of the wheel. You combat rims probably haven't been taken apart in 40 or so years.

Once they are apart then you can sand, prime and paint the two parts.
When the parts are dry put them on your work bench. Look at your new tubes and metal tube covers. Put the new stem from the tube through the hold in one half of the rim. Put the stem cover on the stem. If it fits perfect you don't have to do anything. If the stem is too long go to the hardware store and get enough garden hose washers and place them over the stem. Work with the washers and the stem until the metal stem cover just touches the rim.

When you are happy with the appearance of your newly painted combat rim take it down to the local tire shop and ask the oldest employee to balance you wheel. Tell him/her the history of the wheel and offer a drive around the block when all five wheels are done.

Now that you have completed one wheel return it to the jeep and put your tools away. If you do one wheel an evening it doesn't get frustrating.

It isn't difficult if you take your time, use penetrating oil or WD40. Remember about the right thread and left thread lug nuts on the jeep.

Hope it goes well. Post a picture of your jeep with its reconditioned wheels.