Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
fiveftsix
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by fiveftsix » Tue Aug 08, 2017 1:22 pm

I would like to add and in no way is it to be taken as a criticism of anyone or post but more as a compliment.
Chuck made several excellent comments as have Wolfman, Michael and several others.
These comments are not only opinions but also ones made by Experience gained over time.

The words or expression Professional Mechanic should be taken with a pinch of salt.
It merely points to someone earning a living in a said industry hopeful trained in good practices but not always!!!
However when combined and pre-texted by the word Experienced is something quite different.
Under these circumstances we expect the person in question not only has taken in there training in good practices but also has spent a considerable time in that profession,and in doing so has encountered many oddities he has had to overcome to the benefit of the person or company he represents.
But each to his own,it does not mean this individual is an expert on everything as Chuck mentioned.

Now the comment made by Wolfman has been gained through Experience as have several others.
You will also note that all these comments/opinions are made to supplement previous ones.
AND all done in a gentlemanly manner without the need as some people believe to elevate their one up-manship status !!!!!!!!!


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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by Gary Turman » Thu Aug 10, 2017 8:44 pm

I didn't have the time to read through all the replies so I hope I'm not repeating anything. I recently had a rebuilt engine leak a lot of oil from the start from a rope seal. I ordered one of Ron's main seal. I removed my oil pan and just removed the rear cap. I pulled the rope out and slid the top half of the new seal over and installed the bottom. Put everything back together and no leaks.
1941 Dodge WC-7 Command Car
1942 Ford GPW
1954 Willys M38-A1
1968 M151-A1
1952 Strick M100
1967 M416
1945 Gemco 1/4 ton trailer

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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by dinof » Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:48 pm

One more time please, you took the main cap off and got the upper seal off? How in the heck did you do that? I was told many times that it can't be done without lowering the crank. How did you seat the rope seal in the upper area with the crank still in place?

Can it be done if you have the rubber seal?

Thanks,
Dino
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by Wolfman » Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:03 am

I think Gary went back with a rubber lip seal, Dino.
And letting the crank down a bit by loosening the center and front main would also be a plus.
Years ago, J.C. Whitney sold a rope seal installation tool. Back in the day of rear crankshaft rope seals on small block Chevy engines.
A long woven cable with a tee handle on one end and what looked like a Chinese hand cuff on the other.
Once the old rope seal was removed, the cable on the tool was fed around the seal groove in the block.
Then the rope seal was inserted into the Chinese hand cuff end. The cable was pulled tight on the seal then you pulled on the tee handle to work the rope into the groove around the crankshaft.
Getting the excess rope trimmed after the rope was in place was a challenge.
Then you just installed the rear main. Tighten the main cap bolts and let nature take it's cross as far as seating the rope into the block.
I used to own the tool but have not seen it or any other in years.
Mike Wolford
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by tamnalan » Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:51 am

The ol' Sneaky Pete.

It's still available! https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes- ... pCEALw_wcB
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by dinof » Fri Aug 11, 2017 8:46 am

I'm sorry, I thought he had a rope seal to begin with. I was thinking of changing mine out, and I figured dropping the crank a bit to get to it, but I didn't know what that would do to the front timing cover seal. I have the rubber seal, and it leaks a little. Not bad but enough, but I wish it didn't leak at all.
Dino Falabrino
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by Wolfman » Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:31 am

Yes, you do have to go easy.
The whole crankshaft does not just drop down, it rotates.
The timing chain only allows the front of the crank to drop a limited amount. The rear drops more so it is a little give and take. The front of the crank drops but rotates up. As long as you don't push the limit, it will be OK.
Got interrupted.
Beside, the clearance in the rod journals and the fit in the thrust surfaces on the front main will only allow so much rotation. As long as you just nature take it's course, the rear will come down enough to get the job done without any damaged, as long as you don't apply brute force.
Mike Wolford
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by dinof » Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:53 am

And if you have a gear drive motor?????
Dino Falabrino
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by Wolfman » Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:06 am

Don't loosen the front main too much. You will get the same results as a chain drive.
Main thing is, just let the crank drop naturally. Don't pry it down more than it wants to drop on it's own.
Forcing it down more than it wants to drop will only cause you grief. Don't need grief ! 8)
Mike Wolford
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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by Gary Turman » Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:58 am

Mike is correct, I did a lot of research on rubber seal and seals and liked what I saw in Ron's and it worked perfect. Pay close attention to how it goes and put a little sealant where the two halves meet.
1941 Dodge WC-7 Command Car
1942 Ford GPW
1954 Willys M38-A1
1968 M151-A1
1952 Strick M100
1967 M416
1945 Gemco 1/4 ton trailer

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Re: Professionally rebuilt engine leaks- what now?

Post by dinof » Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:18 am

Thanks Wolfman & Gary for that info. My leak isin't bad, and hasn''t changed in 17 years, but if the motor has to come out for any trans issues or whatever, I will contemplate merely turning the motor upside down. I can control it better that way and know for sure that I have it right when the main get torqued back down.

Thanks Again,
Dino
Dino Falabrino
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43

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