G503 Military Vehicle Message Forums

Thats what I figure that why I and going with your 5.25 measurements. Got a box perfect for it.

matt506 wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:52 am

Thats what I figure that why I and going with your 5.25 measurements. Got a box perfect for it.

great

Ok I think my box I made will pass. Next question what was packed inside with the carb paper, newspaper, shredded grass Or was it all alone?

matt506 wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 09, 2017 11:59 am

Ok I think my box I made will pass. Next question what was packed inside with the carb paper, newspaper, shredded grass Or was it all alone?

It only has the carb. Original packing material and dessicant was not there.

Ok cool I have a bunch of shredded grass or such think I will wrap the carb in paper put a desiccant pouch and then put the Grass in it. Now where to find that wax paper on the out side. Should have some left over at Davenport maybe.

Here is another type label from a carburetor box

That one I can make. plus the outer is a little easier to make I think. thanks a 1/4 ton

Here is a better image of the outside wrapping.

Completed the motor mount blocks and support pieces, cut the bottom of the crate to size and I fixed the four mounting studs in place. I suspect HD used a combination 1/2 lag screw, 1/2 threaded rod to make the studs. I could not find such an animal here so I decided to use galvanized carriage bolts. I drilled a smaller diameter hole for the stud and then drilled a hex nut access niche so i could get a hex nut on the bottom of the screw. I was able to get a wrench on the carriage bolt top to screw them into the holes and onto the hex nut. THis made them secure and hopefully able to hold the weight of an engine. I cut off the top of the carriage bolt with a cut off wheel. Nuts and washers slipped right on.
Everything was dry fitted before drilling and assembly just to make sure things were in the correct place. Make sure your engine is mounted parrallel to the long axis of the board, and centered on the blocks to give enough room for the generator and accessories.
Next I will work with the finish of the board to get a more weathered look. I am experimenting with a combination of Ipswich Pine stain, motor oil and dirty grime from an engine block. Each gives its own color

I have not secured the motor mount blocks to the plate as I will need to weather the parts, install a layer of butcher paper under the blocks and then install the mounting blocks.

I'm hoping for a bit of feedback on the stain test patterns. The Ipswich actually approximates old crates pretty well. Perhaps I will use that, then a bit of steel wool to create some wear and then a small dab of engine grime here and there and a chip off a piece of wood in strategic spots.

Here is the test sample next to two original unstained WW2 crates. Both seem to have a bit of reddish tint to them. Perhaps I need to mix a bit of red oak stain in with the Ipswich and then weather and wear.

This morning I stained and weathered the parts for the crate bottom. I decided to use a few hidden screws in the bottom to secure the mounting blocks as nails will not be very strong with 100# of motor.

I used adhesive spray on the floor and fixed some butcher paper in place then trimmed off the excess. Once that was done I was able to mount the blocks through the pre-drilled holes ensuring they were in the correct location.

I will probably do a bit more weathering and scuffing to get the look more "old". I added nail holes in the side where the side panels would have been. I should probably add some remnants of butcher paper with adhesive, then pull some off to leave traces of that. When all is done I will add two Plexiglas panels on both front and back for viewing.

I will also add two 14" blocks on the bottom so that the crate will sit slightly above the floor a bit so one can get a good grip under the crate when lifting. That's not an authentic part, but who wants to lose a few fingers.

Here is a comparison of an original crated engine and what I have built. You can see the side "pouches" are smaller on the original than in my construction. I can only attribute that to perhaps a smaller size cardboard box for the carburetor was used.

Dry fit of the generator. I did not post the measurement I used for placement of the studs. As a reference point, I used 4.50" for the lower mounting stud that sits below the generator case farthest from the generator drive gear.

Oz
When you pulled your carb out what was and what was not on it? Matt