Alternator Installation
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Alternator Installation
I thought some of you guys might be interested in the alternator installation that we do. This is a neat installation that tucks in under the blower and looks nice.
We use a Delco 10SI "one-wire" alternator that has been modified with a low-RPM cut-in regulator, so the alternator will charge at the lower RPM's that the the mule engine normally turns.
Here's the stock engine:
First thing is to remove the belt guard and the blower cover:
One thing that has to change is the oil drain line on the right rocker box:
Here you can see the alternator mounting bracket and the new oil drain line. Couple of things to keep in mind, you may have to do a little "sheet metal work" on the shroud in order to screw the elbow into the rocker box, and BE CAREFUL, don't over tighten the elbow into the rocker box, it is very easy to crack the housing and cause an oil leak. This is just a drain line, there is no pressure, so snug is fine.
Once the alternator is mounted and the belt installed, you'll see that the lip on the blower will need to be modified.
I used a cut-off disk in my 4 1/2" grinder to cut the lip back.
Here you can see the complete installation, I like the way the alternator tucks in under the blower and uses the same drive belt, no need for the double crank pully. Some people mount the adjusting bracket to the engine guard, but I make a bracket that ties back to the bottom of the bed.
The belt and blower guards complete the installation. I cut just a little off the bottom corner of the belt guard to clear the belt. You want to keep the belt guard because it has the timing marks.
Here's what makes this so nice, it's a true "one-wire" installation, this single wire ties into the electrical system, either at the positive battery terminal at the starter, or to the positive terminal at the battery. Wherever you tie it in, be sure to install a 30 amp in-line fuse.
Here's the complete installation. Very clean and works great.
Hope this helps.
We use a Delco 10SI "one-wire" alternator that has been modified with a low-RPM cut-in regulator, so the alternator will charge at the lower RPM's that the the mule engine normally turns.
Here's the stock engine:
First thing is to remove the belt guard and the blower cover:
One thing that has to change is the oil drain line on the right rocker box:
Here you can see the alternator mounting bracket and the new oil drain line. Couple of things to keep in mind, you may have to do a little "sheet metal work" on the shroud in order to screw the elbow into the rocker box, and BE CAREFUL, don't over tighten the elbow into the rocker box, it is very easy to crack the housing and cause an oil leak. This is just a drain line, there is no pressure, so snug is fine.
Once the alternator is mounted and the belt installed, you'll see that the lip on the blower will need to be modified.
I used a cut-off disk in my 4 1/2" grinder to cut the lip back.
Here you can see the complete installation, I like the way the alternator tucks in under the blower and uses the same drive belt, no need for the double crank pully. Some people mount the adjusting bracket to the engine guard, but I make a bracket that ties back to the bottom of the bed.
The belt and blower guards complete the installation. I cut just a little off the bottom corner of the belt guard to clear the belt. You want to keep the belt guard because it has the timing marks.
Here's what makes this so nice, it's a true "one-wire" installation, this single wire ties into the electrical system, either at the positive battery terminal at the starter, or to the positive terminal at the battery. Wherever you tie it in, be sure to install a 30 amp in-line fuse.
Here's the complete installation. Very clean and works great.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Chuck W. on Tue May 11, 2010 8:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Alternator Installation
I thought that it was a nice set up, but I don't know much about the different ways of doing it. If you look right above the tire there is a bracket and I do no know what it is for.
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- that is the way mine was when I bought it
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Re: Alternator Installation
That's not mule part, something somebody hung on there. Throw it away!
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Re: Alternator Installation
Just a note, these photos are for reference only, due to health issues, I no longer make the alternator bracket or do the install. Thanks
- major519
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Re: Alternator Installation
For those interested Chuck, I am willing to start producing the brackets.
1968 M274A5 USMC 325489
1966 M274A2 USMC 333007
1958 M274 US ARMY 2B3379
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715
1981 M101CDN Manac 3/4 trailer
1984 M1009 CUCV
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1966 M274A2 USMC 333007
1958 M274 US ARMY 2B3379
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715
1981 M101CDN Manac 3/4 trailer
1984 M1009 CUCV
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
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Re: Alternator Installation
Major519, I am negotiating to purchase a mule which includes "some of the parts to add an alternator". I'm not sure what I'll need, but how do I contact you once i figure it out.
JBP
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JBP
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JBP
Rush, NY
Small Military Fleet, only one lonely A2 Mule,
But several other antiques, including me!
Rush, NY
Small Military Fleet, only one lonely A2 Mule,
But several other antiques, including me!
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Re: Alternator Installation
John Emery now has the low-mount alternator mounting kit available.
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Re: Alternator Installation - contact info
John Emery - his contact info - interested in the alternator install parts - Thanks
You can never have to many firearms or military vehicles
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- G-Colonel
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Re: Alternator Installation
Anyone have a original TOW mule alternator bracket for the MOPAR style alternator ? Thanks Warren Duchesne
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Re: Alternator Installation
Check with John Emery, he may still have some of Bill Watson's reproductions and/or may be reproducing them himself.
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Re: Alternator Installation
I will but checking for a original first . Thanks
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